Gilera DNA 50 Specs and Info (2000 to 2006)

Gilera scooter parts

Gilera DNA 50 Specs

Gilera DNA 50cc in red

Looking for spares? Gilera DNA parts on Amazon….

Gilera DNA 50 Specs…..

Introduced into the UK in July 2000, the Gilera 50cc DNA was a ground breaking hybrid of a motorbike and a scooter. The DNA 50 featured larger (14 inch) wheels and front forks and body layout similar to a motorbike, whilst using a twist and go engine, automatic transmission and drive from a scooter.

The DNA 50cc proved massively popular with younger riders and although it was restricted to 30mph (as per UK law!), it was fairly easy to de restrict and unrestricted 50cc models could (supposedly!) get up to 60mph!

Thinking of servicing your bike? You’ll need a Gilera DNA 50 manual…

A little bit about the Gilera DNA 50cc…..

Basic model info…

Manufacturer: Gilera
Model: DNA 50
CC: 49cc
Engine type: Single cylinder (2 stroke)
Years in production: 2000 to 2005
Style of bike: Scooter
Insurance: Group 7 (of 17) – Insurance premium gone up? Save money at

Models and years (in the UK)

DNA 50cc (July 2000 to early 2005)…..
Frame number started: ZAPC270000——-
Description: Hybrid motorcycle with a scooter engine with single rear shock, conventional front suspension setup, front and rear brake discs, open cradle beam frame, 14 inch 5 spoke wheels and small headlamp fairing.
Available colours: Red, yellow or Black
Cost new: £1999
DNA 50 RST (2005 to 2006)…..
Description: Similar to above model with a few changes and changes to the handlebars.
Available colours: Stone gray and diamond white.
Cost new: £1999

DNA 50 2 stroke oil

Only use a quality fully synthetic oil in the DNA 50cc!

Engine and gearbox stuff…..

Displacement: 49 cc
Engine type: Single cylinder (2 stroke)
Bore×Stroke: 40×39.3mm
Engine code number: C271M
Cooling system: Liquid cooled
Gearbox: Automatic
Gearbox/final drive oil: Separate final drive oil (80w-90 gear oil)
Max. Power Output: 3 BHP
Top speed (approx): 30mph (restricted UK version)
Idle speed: 1800rpm
Final drive: Variable belt drive
DNA 50 fuel tank

DNA 50cc petrol tank

Carb, fuel and oil stuff…..

Fuel system: Carburetor
Carb type: Dellorto PHVA 17.5ID
Fuel type: Unleaded petrol
Engine lubrication: Fully synthetic 2 Stroke oil
Final drive oil type: 80w/90 drive oil
Petrol tank capacity: 9.5 litres

Gilera DNA 50 battery


Electric stuff…..

Ignition type: Electric CDI
Starter: Electric start and kick start
Electrical system voltage: 12 volts
System voltage: 13 volts (@ 3000rpm)
Spark plug: 1 x NGK BR9ES
Spark plug gap: 0.6 to 0.7mm
Spark plug tightening torque: 25 to 30nm
Spark plug ignition: 1 x Coil (built into the CDI)
Magneto/flywheel tightening torque: 40 to 44nm
Battery: YTX4L-BS / CTX4L-BS
DNA 50cc back wheel

DNA 50cc 5 spoke rear wheel

Shocks, brakes and wheels stuff…..

Front wheel type: 14 inch 5 Spoke wheel
Front tyre size: 120/70-14 (tubeless)
Rear wheel type: 14 inch 5 Spoke wheel
Rear tyre size: 140/70-14 (tubeless)
Front wheel spindle torque: 45 to 50nm
Rear wheel nut torque: 104 to 126nm
Front tyre pressure: 26psi / 1.8 bar
Rear tyre pressure: 29psi 2.0 bar
Front brake: Single 240mm disc brake with 25mm dual-piston floating caliper
Front brake disc: Disc brake MD944D (EBC)
Front brake pad (2001 to 2006 models with a Grimeca caliper): EBC SFA194
Front brake pad (2001 to 2005 models with a Heng Tong caliper): EBC SFA353
Rear brake: Single 200mm disc brake with 30mm piston caliper
Rear brake disc: Disc brake MD910D (EBC)
Rear brake pads: EBC SFA260
Front Suspension: Telescopic hydraulic forks
Stanchion diameter: 35mm
Front fork oil: 10w fork oil
Fork oil capacity (per fork): 280ml
Rear Suspension: Single monoshock
50cc DNA seat

50cc Gilera DNA seat

Weights, measures ‘n stuff…..

Length (total): 1,920mm
Wheelbase: 1,335mm
Width: 705mm
Dry weight (no oils, fluids etc): 101kg
Wet weight (inc oils etc): 112kg
Fuel tank capacity: 9.5 litres

Service stuff…..

Servicing your bike? You’ll need a Gilera DNA Haynes manual…
Gearbox / final drive
Check oil: Every 5,000km (3,107 miles) or 12 months
Change oil: Every 10,000km (6,214 miles) 24 months
Gearbox / final drive oil: 80w/90 drive oil
Oil volume: 100ml
Hydraulic brake system
Check brake fluid: Every 5,000km (3,107 miles) or 12 months
Change brake fluid: Every 24 months
Brake fluid: DOT 4 motorbike brake fluid
Cooling system
Check coolant: Every 5,000km (3,107 miles) or 12 months
Change coolant: Every 24 months
Recommended coolant: Motorbike coolant
Front forks
Check fork oil: Every 5,000km (3,107 miles) or 12 months
Change fork oil: Every 24 months
Fork oil grade: 10w (10 weight)
Fork oil volume (per fork): 280ml

Frame number location…..

The frame number can normally be found stamped on the right side of the headstock (right as your sitting on the bike).

Useless stuff…..

The DNA was sold by Gilera in the UK with the strapline ‘100% Scooter, 100% Motorbike, 200% Radical’. Although the bike was simple to use and operated like a scooter, the DNA had motorcycle front forks, larger front and rear discs, dummy fuel tank, digital display on the clocks and ‘clip on’ style handlebars which gave the DNA 50 a more ‘sports bike’ riding position.

All this radical styling didn’t make the bike cheap for a scooter, but it did prove popular and was used for scooter racing.
Unfortunately, the Gilera DNA once held the infamous title of ‘Most stolen bike in the UK’ at one point!

Buying advice…..

Well, if your thinking of buying one it’s probably cheap and there’s a very good reason for that! As a general rule of thumb, because their owned by younger riders they will normally have been thrashed within an inch of their lives and run on shite/cheap/poor quality 2 stroke oil (Gilera DNA 50’s really don’t like to be run on anything less then a good quality, fully synthetic 2T oil!).

The DNA 50 does have a few odd gremlins, although it was quick and handled well, the electrics were surprisingly complicated for a 50cc bike and the looms were known to give problems.
Also, this was the MOST stolen bike in the UK at one point, so forget anything without the right paperwork, keys or that has damaged locks.
There are also many crashed and repaired examples around (mainly due to the fact that every rider who got on one thought he could ride like a BSB or MotoGP rider!).

Useful DNA 50 links…..
Used Gilera DNA Spares…
New Gilera DNA Spares…
Gilera DNA 50 (and other) Manuals…

Disclaimer: The information on this page is correct to the best of our knowledge. But the info should NOT be taken as 100% accurate as we can, occasionally make mistakes!

If you think we’ve missed any important info out or have something to add, please feel free to leave a comment below…..


40 responses to “Gilera DNA 50 Specs and Info (2000 to 2006)”

  1. Ben grimshaw Avatar
    Ben grimshaw

    I just wondered what is the average miles per gallon in urban areas.

    1. It’s think the Gilera DNA 50cc is supposed to get around 40 to 50 MPG (I seem to remember reading that somewhere!). But, the MPG will be less on models that have had performance engine, carb and exhaust mods.

  2. Steven naas Avatar
    Steven naas

    I’ve got a 2004 gilera DNA 50cc and it hasn’t been run for 18 months & now won’t start. I’ve put new battery new spark plug & petrol in tank, she turns over but not starting. How ever the other day I noticed that fuel isn’t getting too the carburetor, I’ve took pipe of carburetor & sucked it but nothing coming through . Any ideas please as I desperately need bike for work!!!

    1. It could be either an air lock in the fuel system or a blockage in the vacuum pump?

  3. vincent sherwood Avatar
    vincent sherwood

    hi just wondered if you could help i have an o3 dna 50 was all fine then 1 day the electric start sopped working from button rear brake light dont work when you pull levers,and indicators dont work everything else is fine,any ideas or help i would be highly greatful ive tried everything i can think of even multimeter but cant trace where problem lies thankyou…

    1. Difficult to say over the net, but have a look at the wires where they come out of the switches, especially if they go round the bikes headstock (they could have got caught by something and damaged)?

      1. vincent sherwood Avatar
        vincent sherwood

        thanks for your reply ,ill have a look again gonna take dummy tank of aswell so i can have a good look,if i find out the prob ill post back here thanks again…

    2. hi vincent i am having the same problem as you and wa s wondering if you found out wat was wrong thanks

  4. hi i just recently had my 03 dna rewired now it wont kick start at all any ideas ??

    1. Does it start on the electric start?

      1. it has never had electric start since i bought it

      2. just hop he aint trying to squeeze more cash out of me

  5. i sent it back to the garage and the guy said it keeps flooding ?

    1. Flooding is normally to do with the carb and fuel system (it’s not normally a fault with the wiring)?

  6. Charles Avatar

    connected to the brake lever do you know what that spring is called or where i could get a new one? thanks

    1. It may be called a lever return spring (not to sure about that mind you!). Your best bet would probably be to ask a Gilera dealer with the parts on file to order the part (it shouldn’t be more then a few quid?).

  7. Callum Avatar

    on my Gilera DNA 50cc it starts off slow and then picks up i was wondering if that is normal for this bike

    1. It depends how long it runs slow for, what’s the mileage and have you tried cleaning the carb and filter?
      If you don’t think it’s running right you could try putting a new spark plug in and running some octane booster / fuel cleaner through it?

      1. Callum Avatar

        sorry for the late reply i have found the problem it was something to do the the drive belt. i will be taking it apart and replacing the belt

        1. Make sure the inside of the housing is clean and free from dirt, bit’s and debris when you change the belt. Also, whilst you’ve got the cover off, might be an idea to change the clutch rollers too.

  8. I have a 03 Gilera DNA 50 and it has started dripping fuel from directly under the fuel tank,I think its from the fuel pump were the pipes connect to the pump.I was wondering if i should change the pump or pipes,and is it a common faulty when the pump is knackered.

    1. It could be either the pump leaking or a split in the fuel pipes.
      If you carefully loosen the clamp and remove the fuel pipes you should be able to see if there’s any splits or damage to the pipes (you may need to drain you fuel tank 1st though?).
      The pipes are rubber and the pump contains rubber parts that can split with age.

      1. Thanks for the help the fuel line was split, but since I fixed it it now idles stupidly high at about 5000+rpm with rear wheel spinning like crazy when I put it on the stand(idle screw does nothing when turned). Off the stand it changes anywhere from 1500/3000rpm(idle screw seems to drop it a bit off the stand but jumps again when back on stand).

        1. Could be a sticking throttle cable (check the cable is routed correctly and moves freely), possibly dirt in the carb or corrosion on the carb needle?

  9. davie wishart Avatar
    davie wishart

    hi there recently bought a universal motorcycle rear light with indicators and numberplate
    which go were…..white, think black for ground so what colours go were on my gilera dna 50 gp 2000 big thanxs from davie

    1. Unfortunately, I don’t have any wiring diagram for the DNA 50 so I don’t know where the different wires go.
      You should be able to get the info from a Gilera DNA manual:

  10. I have a dna 50 it won’t start got spark loads of fuel and just had a full rebuild as it wouldn’t start before was told the piston if I cover the air intake pipe it will start but very ruff ?

    1. Check the rubber air inlet pipes that go from the airbox to the carb (and from the carb to the engine if there are any?). If there’s any splits, holes or damage to the pipes this may be causing your problem?

  11. callum taylor Avatar
    callum taylor

    hi there I was out riding my gilera dna 50 yesterday went out then on my way home when it died on me I got it back there was no spark changed the plug still nothing any ideas??? it was just like me turning the key off

    1. Did you lose all power (no lights, clocks, horn etc) or did you just lose spark?

  12. Brett watkin Avatar
    Brett watkin

    I have a gilera dna 50 cc was working fine i put in a van to take to my son 300 miles away Took a while to get it started once off loaded and once started I took it for a 5 min run. When starting I need to give it some throttle. Didn’t have to do this before . Now after a few days it won’t start. It did tilt over in back of van on transport but not all the way over. Any ideas what could be wrong

    1. If possible, check the 3 basics on the bike:

      1) Is fuel getting into the cylinder? (after trying to start it, if you take the plug out you should be able to see and smell petrol on the plug).
      2) Is there a good spark at the plug? (try putting in a new plug to make sure).
      3) Is the compression good on the engine? (as a very rough guide, take the plug out and put your thumb over the hole, when you try to start it the pressure should be able to push your thumb slightly off the plug hole).

  13. My DNA run out of petrol as I keep trying to turn it over then I put petrol and the bike don’t start?

    1. Could be a blockage or an air bubble in the fuel pipes or tap?

      1. It sounded like the starter motor was gone and my bike has a flat batt aswell and I don’t have kick start help pls

        1. You’ll need either the starter motor or the kick start to get it started (there’s no other way of starting them). You would probably need to charge the battery up to start with.

  14. I run out of petrol and keep on starting it and I sounded like it wore out the starter moto is that right?

    1. What kind of noise did the bike make when you wore the starter motor out (e.g. was it a clicking noise)?

      1. Yes something like that

        1. If it’s a clicking noise, it usually means your battery needs charging up (there’s enough power in the battery to activate the starter motor relay, but not enough to spin the starter motor).