Yamaha XJ600 S Diversion Specs and Info (1992 to 2004)

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Yamaha XJ600 Diversion Specs

Yamaha XJ 600 S Diversion spares…

Yamaha XJ600 Diversion specs…..

The Yamaha XJ600S Diversion was a basic half faired sports touring/commuter bike manufactured by Yamaha between January 1992 and January 2004 (in the UK).
The XJ 600 Diversion was also available in Europe, Australia and the USA (although it was known as the ‘Seca II’ in North America and Australia).
The XJ600S Diversion was a half faired version (aka 4BR model) released between 1992 and 2004, the XJ600N Diversion (aka 4KE model) was a naked version of the bike (with no front fairing) released between 1995 and 2004.

XJ600 Diversion front
Front view of a 1998 / 4BRE model XJ600S Diversion

A little bit about the Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion…..

Basic model info…

Manufacturer: Yamaha
Model: XJ600S Diversion
CC: 598cc
Engine type: Inline 4 cylinder (4 stroke)
Years in production: 1992 to 2004
Style of bike: Half faired commuter / tourer
Insurance: Group 9 (of 17) – Get a cheap insurance quote from Carole Nash

Thinking of buying one? Don’t get caught out, get an HPI check…

Twin disc XJ600 Diversion
Later 4BRE (S reg / 1998) XJ600 Diversion with a twin floating front disc brakes

Models and years (in the UK)

The bike also had single front and rear disc brakes and a single piece side and tail panel.

XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1992 to Dec 1992)…..
Model: 4BR
Frame number started: 4BR-000101—-
Description: Basic sports roadster with monoshock rear suspension, 38mm front forks, 3 spoke wheels, 4 into 2 exhaust and half front fairing with single headlight.
Available colours: Red or green
Cost new: £3649 for a ‘J’ reg model and £3389 for a ‘K’ reg model
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1993 to Dec 1993)…..
Model: 4BR
Frame number started: 4BR-039101—-
Description: Same as above model but with a slightly redesigned fairing with air scoops and the screen had a grey trim.
Available colours: Red or violet
Cost new: £3719 for a ‘K’ reg model and £3999 for an ‘L’ reg model
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1994 to Dec 1994)…..
Model: 4BR
Frame number started: 4BR-100101—-
Description: Same as above models but with a new ‘Diversion’ logo on the fairing.
Available colours: Silver/grey, dark blue or reddish yellow
Cost new: £3999 for an ‘L’ reg model and £4399 for an ‘M’ reg model
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1995 to Dec 1995)…..
Model: 4BR
Frame number started: 4BR-161101—-
Description: No changes.
Available colours: Maroon, silver or green
Cost new: £4399 for an ‘M’ reg model and £4629 for an ‘N’ reg model
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1996 to Dec 1996)…..
Model: 4BRA
Frame number started: 4BR-183101—-
Description: 4BRA model with oil cooler, new front half fairing with indicators mounted on the sides, new headlamp, new carb, choke mounted on the left handlebar control, redesigned bar end weights and redesigned ‘2 piece’ side/tail panels.
Available colours: Red with a red frame or dark blue with a blue frame
Cost new: £4699
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1997 to Dec 1997)…..
Model: 4BRC
Description: 4BRC model with plastic fork leg protectors, hazard light switch on left handlebar control and new seat.
Available colours: Metallic cyan (blue) or metallic purple
Cost new: £4699
XJ600 S Diversion (Jan 1998 to Nov 1998)…..
Model: 4BRE
Frame number started: JYARJ01—-
Description: 4BRE model with slightly redesigned center stand, 41mm front forks, twin front floating disc brakes and new wiring loom with ‘plug in’ adapters.
Available colours: Dark blue or red
Cost new: £4699
XJ600 S Diversion (Dec 1998 to Jan 2004)…..
Model: 4BRE
Description: 4BRE model same as above with no changes.
Available colours: Green or red
Cost new: £3999
Single disc XJ600 Diversion
Older (J reg / 1992) XJ600 Diversion with a single front disc brake
XJ 600 S Diversion engine
XJ600 Diversion 4BRE / 1998 inline 4 cylinder engine

Engine and gearbox stuff…..

Displacement: 598 cc
Engine type: Inline 4 cylinder (4 stroke)
Valves: 8 valves (2 valves per cylinder)
Bore and stroke: 58.5mm x 55.7mm
Compression: 10:1
Cooling system: Air cooled up to December 1995. January 1996 models onwards were air and oil cooled (via an oil cooler)
Clutch: Wet multi plate clutch
Gearbox: 6 Speed, manual clutch (1st gear down, 2nd to 6th gear up. Neutral between 1st and 2nd gears)
Gearbox oil: From engine (doesn’t need a separate gearbox oil)
Power: 61 bhp (UK model)
Torque: 54 nm
0-62 mph time: 4.7 seconds
Top speed (approx): 117mph (approx 188kph)
Final drive: Chain drive
Chain and sprocket kits: 92-03 Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion chain/sprocket
XJ 600 S Diversion top view
XJ600 Diversion 4BRE / 1998 top view

Carb, fuel and oil stuff…..

Fuel system: Carburetor
Carb type: 4 x 28mm Mikuni carbs
Fuel type: Unleaded petrol
Lubrication: Wet sump
Engine oil type: 10w40 Motorcycle oil
Oil filter: Filtrex OIF006, Hiflo HF303, Champion F301, F306 or F304
Air filter: Hiflo part no: HFA4603, Yamaha part no: 4BR-14451-00Performance air filter
XJ 600 S Diversion side view
Side view of an older (1992 – Single front disc) XJ600 Diversion

Electric stuff…..

Ignition type: Electric CDI
Starter: Electric start
Electrical system voltage: 12 volts
Spark plug: 4 x NGK CR8E
Spark plug coil: 2 x Coils
Battery: YTX9-BS / CTX9-BS
XJ 600 S Diversion clocks
XJ600 Diversion (1998 / 4BRE) clocks and controls

Shocks, brakes and wheels stuff…..

Front wheel type: 3 Spoke cast wheel
Front tyre size: 110/80-17 (tubeless)
Rear wheel type: 3 Spoke cast wheel
Rear tyre size: 130/70-18 (tubeless)
Front tyre pressure: 36psi
Rear tyre pressure: 42psi
Front brake (1992 to 1997): Single disc brake with 2 pot caliper
Front brake disc (1992 to 1997): Disc brake MD2031LS (EBC)
Front brake pad (1992 to 1997): EBC FA179
Front brake (1998 to 2004): Twin floating disc brake with 2 x 2 pot caliper
Front brake disc (1998 to 2004): Disc brake MD2074LS and MD2074RS (EBC)
Front brake pad (1998 to 2004): EBC FA199 (2 sets required)
Rear brake (all years): Single disc brake with 1 pot caliper
Rear brake disc (all years): Disc brake MD2002 (EBC)
Rear brake pads (all years): EBC FA104
Front Suspension: Standard (not upside down) Telescopic forks (non adjustable)
Stanchion diameter (1992 to 1997): 38mm
Stanchion diameter (1998 to 2004): 41mm
Front suspension travel: 140mm
Fork length (approx): 79cm
Rear Suspension: Single monoshock (with preload adjustment)
Rear suspension travel: 110mm
XJ 600 S Diversion rear view
XJ600 Diversion (1998 / 4BRE) rear and side view

Weights, measures ‘n stuff…..

Length (wheelbase): 1,445 mm
Seat height: 77 cm
Dry weight (no oils, fluids etc): 182 kg
Wet weight (with oils, fluids etc): 198 kg
Fuel tank capacity: 17 litres
XJ600S Divi underseat storage
XJ600 Diversion (1998 / 4BRE) Underseat storage and battery compartment

Service stuff…..

Servicing your XJ600 Diversion? You’ll need a Haynes Workshop Manual

Engine oil
Engine oil change frequency: Every 6000km (3728 miles) or 6 months
Engine oil capacity: 2.6 litre (oil filter takes approx 300ml)
Engine oil: API SG or higher 10w40 Motorbike oil
Chain drive
Final drive chain frequency: Now repeat after me…..’I MUST LUBE MY CHAIN LITTLE AND OFTEN!!
Chain and sprocket kit: 91-03 XJ600 Diversion chain/sprocket
Hydraulic brake system (front and rear)
Brake fluid change frequency: Check every 6000km (3728 miles) or 6 months and change every 24 months
Brake fluid: DOT 4 motorbike brake fluid
Fork oil
Front fork oil change frequency: check every 6000km (3728 miles) or 6 months and change every 12000km (7456 miles) or 12 months
Front fork oil capacity: 460ml or 375ml per fork
Front fork oil: 10w (medium weight) motorbike fork oil
XJ600S Divi side view
Yamaha XJ600S Diversion (1998 / 4BRE) side view

Frame number location…..

The frame number information plate can normally be found on the right hand side, near the front on the frame.

The frame number is usually stamped onto the right side of the headstock (the front part of the frame just below the handle bars).

XJ600S Diversion frame number
Yamaha XJ600S Diversion frame info plate and frame number locations

Useless stuff…..

Launched in 1992, the XJ600 Diversion (or Seca 2 as it was known in North America and Australia) was the successor for the Yamaha XJ600 (manufactured between 1984 and 1991).
The engine in the Diversion was a variation of the old XJ600 lump and was tuned to improve low and mid range power.
Although never designed to set the world alight with it’s looks, power and handling, the XJ600S Diversion was manufactured and sold for 12 years by Yamaha due to being very popular with a wide range of bikers (including commuters, couriers and people looking for their 1st ‘big’ bike!).
The XJ600 Divi proved popular because of the simple yet bulletproof engine (making it very reliable!), comfortable riding position and low price new (only £3999 in 1999!).
Reasonable examples can be picked up (not literally, they weighed a feckin tonne due to all the heavy steel parts!) with tax and test for under £500.

XJ600S Diversion oil cooler
Yamaha XJ600S Diversion (later 1998 model) oil cooler
XJ 600 Diversion hazard light switch
Yamaha XJ600S Diversion (later 4BRE model) hazard light switch

Buying advice…..

There’s alot of these beasties about, mainly due to the fact Yamaha sold loads over the 12 year period because of the low new price.
Like the XJ900 Diversion, high mileage XJ600 Divi’s are nothing to be afraid of and it is fairly common to find bikes with 50k plus miles on them.

The engines are fairly bullet proof, so as long as it’s not making strange noises or smoking it should be ok.
Obviously, there are numerous used and abused ex courier, ultra high and neglected bikes about which should be avoided.
Parts are fairly cheap, but exhausts and forks can be expensive to replace. Because of the 4 into 2 set up of the exhausts buying replacement end cans can be expensive (also worth bearing in mind that some owners have complained that cheaper, single can systems can upset the balance of the bike!).

Later models (1996 on) had a few extra ‘nice bits’ (like hazard warning lights and oil cooler), the 1998 (4BRE) model onwards had twin front disc brakes and a better seat.

Thanks to 🙂

The Silkolene website for the service info
Motorcycle Specs

Yamaha XJ 600 S Diversion spares

XJ600S Diversion luggage holders
Handy things like luggage holders helped to make the XJ600 Divi popular

145 thoughts on “Yamaha XJ600 S Diversion Specs and Info (1992 to 2004)”

  1. I’ve just returned to biking after 20-odd years and bought a fab ’92 Diversion from Kings in Oxford – a perfect bike to get to grips with biking and to work through the winter – currently covering something like 400-500 miles a week trekking from home (Liverpool) to project sites (Banbury, Oxford and Birmingham) – I’m learning as I go along – having fun (when it’s dry) and adrenaline rush (in wet, wind and ice)…but getting there. Biggest questions at the moment, what’s the best battery charger to buy, is it easy fitting heated grips and what are the key things to do to prepare for winter..I want to ride through with possible exception of snow. And this site is great – so nice to see stuff that’s specific to the bike – thanks a lot!!

    1. The Yam XJ600’s are good, reliable bikes and they are ideal for commuting.
      You probably won’t need a battery charger if your using the bike for 400 to 500 miles a week (riding the bike is the BEST way to maintain your battery!).

      If you feel the battery is getting a bit low, a cheap motorcycle battery charger will do you fine (like these ones….).
      Just make sure you use a Motorcycle battery charger as car and general vehicle chargers charge at a much higher rate and will damage the XJ600 battery.

      Fitting heated grips is fairly easy (good one’s usually come with instructions). The only thing to bear in mind is to make sure you don’t connect the grips to a permanent live wire (so don’t connect them straight off the battery, connect them to a wire that doesn’t have a charge going through it when the ignition is turned off).
      This way, if you forget to turn the heated grips off (and trust me, as an ex recovery driver this happens alot!) they won’t drain your battery……

      To prepare for the winter (bike wise), just keep the battery charged up (it takes more out of the battery starting in cold weather) and the biggest thing is to keep the bike clean, especially the exhaust downpipes and cans as the winter salt on the road loves eating metal parts if left on the bike!

      Also think about carrying a few tools and a few emergency spare parts with you (like tyre foam, a spare chain link etc) as nothings worse then having to wait hours in the freezing cold on the side of the road if you break down.

      1. This is grand, thanks – had first break down 3 weeks after getting bike – rectifier kaput, which pretty much screwed things up..scary-ish as was cracking on between Liverpool and Leeds in the outside lane – nice man from the AA suggested that battery required replacement shortly (ytx9-bs..reading 12.1 when running) – so i will be getting this and a charger from you shortly and even though Kings put bike through an MOT when i got it, am thinking of getting it into millennium (yamaha dealer) in st helens for a service before the really tricky weather hits – at breakdown, AA got me to Padgett’s in Dewsbury who were fabulous…also, any recommendations on overboots – I’ve got a pair for a tenner which are okay – is there a gore-tex piece of kit out there?

        Best

        1. It’s often advisable to change the battery after the reg/rec has gone (when the reg/rec goes the bike will be completely running off the battery which can cause the battery to fail because of the extra drain and load placed on it).
          But, if you caught it early enough the battery can still be ok as long as it’s charged up again.

          Unfortunately, reg/rec’s tend to go with no warning (so there’s no way really the garage would have known it would fail) and the bike electrical system isn’t part of the MOT (apart from testing the lights, horn etc work).

          Best overboot’s I had were black bin liners inside my bike boots! But, failing that a pair of army surplus one’s might do the trick?:

          Army Gore Tex over boot…..

          The only mod you would need is a bit of duct tape on them where you change gear?

        2. yes mate go rtex army boots ,or gortex boot liners always went with the para boots ,with liners,they do gotex bike boots i found a bit out of my price range,

  2. thanks for this
    irritating – just gone to get bike warmed up for ride to Oxford and steering lock won’t unlock, not cold enough for freezing and worked perfectly well so far..any ideas..

    1. Because of where the lock is located they can get a build up of dirt inside the locking mechanism which leads to them sticking (this is a common problem with alot of bikes steering locks if there not regularly lubed!).

      To clean the lock out you can try spraying a brake cleaner into the keyhole in the ignition, leave it for a few mins, then spray a maintenance spray into the keyhole (something like a good maintenance spray).
      Give it a while to penetrate the lock (you can also try spraying around the steering lock).

      To keep the lock ‘slick’ you can spray a wax oil into the lock (available from most car/automotive stores).

  3. thanks

    just done this and it works!!

    yay! now it’s just the simple matter of riding to a meeting in Banbury starting at 4pm

    thanks!

  4. hi
    got a 51 plate xj600n 17 000 gen miles on clock
    got a problem with brakes rear ? have changed pads and overhauled calipers bled works fine
    however seems like thy are sticking when bike is not used put bike on centre stand and run it in gear used brake and fine the reason i overhauled rear brake was because i thought that was the prob
    i am unable to even push the bike in neutral its that bad as if brake is stuck
    when throttle down to slow the bike comes to a stop on its own
    pulling my hair out any thoughts would be great steve

    1. A sticking rear caliper is usually due to dirty or corroded caliper pistons. Try giving the piston a good clean with a brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Then lightly coat the caliper with a silicone lubricant (be careful not to get any on the brake pads though!).
      If the piston is badly corroded it may need replacing.

      Also check the brake hose for signs of cracking and press the brake pedal to see if the hose visibly bulges (which can be a sign the hose needs replacing).

  5. I have a 1992 xj600 s diversion has 10k miles, cranks but no spark and it is getting fuel any ideas before i work on it?

    1. If you’ve got no spark it could be:

      • Faulty coils
      • Faulty CDI
      • Blown fuse
      • Damaged wire

      Check all the wiring going to the coils and CDI, look for and bare or damaged wires. If you have no spark on any cylinder it could be a fuse or the CDI. If you have a spark only on 2 cylinders it may be a faulty coil.

  6. hi;
    ı have got one xj 600 n 1997 model and ı need one gear for this. This gear locate in the front of this starter gear and when you push the start button it will turn by the starter motor gear and the engine start… can you help me how can ı find it?
    thanks a lot
    best regards
    ramadan

  7. Hi Whitedog,

    I have a 1997 xj600s and will be replacing the exhaust this summer for the mot, I would like to keep a 4 into 2 system as I prefer a balanced look and hate the big centre stand stops the 4 into 1 systems have,

    can you recommend a not too wallet bashing system that sounds nice and grunty

    regards

    Dave

    1. Hello!
      You could have a look at Vance & Hines, Marving or Delkevic exhausts (I think they do 4 into 2 systems with sportier exhausts for the 600 Diversion?).

      If you want to keep the 4 into 2 system its likely to be £250 upwards for just the cans and if you want the downpipes you would have to buy them separately (stainless steel replacement downpipes should be about £200 upwards).
      Basically, exhaust systems with 2 end cans are normally much more expensive then single can systems (due to there being 2 cans!).

  8. well so far so good – ridden all through since July; bit chilly at times and touch of the torvill and dean but..all good! quick question, are there any handy hints at cleaning / addressing light rusting…i’m washing the bike regularly with cold water and then using a good quality polish and auto sol but, i’m starting to lose the fight on small bits of persistent rust on nuts, bolts, engine casing, frame and stuff – the bike has done 45k (not much for a ‘J’ reg) but i’d like to keep on top of this if i can – any snazzy ideas..hard work and elbow grease is fine..just looking for some guidance as to what’s best…also, getting a significant discharge of white exhaust when starting up from cold..is this hot gases condensing or an internal fault?

    thanks…arthur

    1. Well, unfortunately, if your using the bike all year round you will be constantly fighting the rust! To remove the rust you can use a little bit of wire wool (this is the easiest way I’ve found to remove light rust). Just try the wire wool on a small area first (as it can scratch some parts). Also bear in mind some parts will have a thin chrome plating layer which is easily removed.
      Over the winter you can try coating the metal parts with something like Vaseline to protect them from the elements. Vaseline is an old trick commonly used on bikes in storage over the winter to prevent rust (not sure it would be any good on the hotter parts like the engine and exhaust though!).
      Or, you could use a good, thick motorcycle grease to cover the nut’s, bolt’s and other exposed metal parts?

  9. Hi there, after buying an 1992 divvy (and not regretting it at all might I add.) it has finally after riding the winter on some incredibly shi%%y roads got a few holes in the exhaust can… Tried the gum and the tape but it really seem like a quick but not perminent fix. Im biting the bullet and getting a can made but I dont know what the measurements or… pretty much anything for that matter apart from its a 4-1 system

    Taa muchly for any advice and help

    1. Well, if your having a can made the metal fabricator should be able to make the can to fit the bike? Or you can buy a cheap full 4 into 1 system on Ebay for around £250, or a top quality Motad Nexxus system for about £350.
      The only way you’ll get the measurements is to find someone we has a complete one you could measure (I know we don’t have any complete XJ’s or cans at the moment).

  10. hi there – well, still going through winter, not used any other transport since last august and clocked up around 8,000 miles, mostly long-ish haul between liverpool, leeds and oxfordshire – just getting a slight mechanical noise in the front lower part of the engine at low revs, ticking over is fine, revving in neutral is fine, and nothing over 4,000 revs; seems just to be at the lover revs in any gear…i’ve put 2l of oil since getting it, oil the chain every 500 after reading your advice…just about to put some more oil in…getting around 14 miles per litre but it’s smoking a bit on startup and some white smoke from head gasket area and union connection in 4-into-1 exhaust area…again on start up..thinking it might be moisture, unburned fuel / road wet dirt…any ideas…as done 8,000 since august maybe a service is called for, changed plugs and that stuff…any ideas on engine sounds?

    thanks – arthur

    1. What’s the mileage on the engine, do you know what oil it currently has in it (and when was it last changed) and are you sure your using a litre of oil every 14 miles (I might have read that bit wrong?)?

      The smoke on start up is most likely to be worn exhaust valve stem seals (in the top of the engine). Not a major worry unless the smoke get’s really bad (worn stem seals means some of the oil leaks past the exhaust valves into the cylinder and get’s burnt, hence the smoke!).
      Smoke from the exhaust head probably means either the cylinder head seal has perished (letting smoke escape) or the cylinder head bolts may need tightening up.
      Leak from the 4 into 1 exhaust connection probably means the exhaust gaskets that connects the downpipes &/or exhaust have perished and need replacing. Just bear in mind before you take the exhaust apart to have a look, if the exhaust is old & rusted it may fall to bit’s when you take it apart -this has happened to me more times then I can remember :-(.
      As to the engine noise I would say change the oil and see if it get’s any better (the normal oil change interval should be around every 4000 miles on an XJ600)

      1. thanks for info – riding on M62, engine suddenly leaking loads of hot oil onto bike, me and rear tyre, bike slewed across the 3 lanes at 70mph, managed to maintain control using placing right leg on road and steadying bike – AA got bike to millenium in st helens who have been great – they think bike could cost around £ 700 to fix – probable cause overpressure in engine and blowing rocker and head gaskets – what do you suggest? i’m thinking of getting the bike back to liverpool, buying a replacement engine and getting the bike back on the road – what do you reckon?

        1. Well, you can pick up a 2nd hand XJ600 engine from £90 upwards on Ebay so it’s probably the most economical way to get the bike going again (we also have an XJ600 Diversion engine here)……
          Just make sure you find out what caused the overpressure before you fit the new engine (if it was a blockage in the oil cooler it could happen again!).

          1. just an update on this – they were great, supplied all new branded spares and labour, rebuilt the engine complete, re-shimmed and cleaned barrels and stuff, replaced all filters, full set of gaskets and new rear tyre for £ 400…they were just great! cause of the blow out…too much oil in the engine, my fault:-(

    1. It’s very unlikely carbs from a 1992 Yamaha 600 Diversion will fit an old (pre Diversion) XJ600.

      The old XJ 600 used BS 32 Mikuni carbs and the early (1992) 600 Divi’s used BDST 28 carbs (I think both carbs had different settings, needle and jet sizes as well).

  11. Hi.

    Rode the 197 Yamaha 600 in the morning last week, all fine.
    In the afternoon tried to start in, all that happened is the sound of the solenoid clicking. Cleaned battery posts and connections with sand paper, did the same for the solenoid connections, checked fuses, hit the starter a few times without damaging it, it goes when push started.
    Battery is a year old.
    I would appreciate some advise thank you!

    Kind regards,
    Sylvester.

    1. More then likely your battery is flat. The battery probably has enough power to activate the starter solenoid, which makes the clicking noise, but not enough power to turn the starter motor.
      See if you can borrow a volt meter and check the voltage on the battery (if it reads below 12.4 volts it will be weak).
      If the battery is flat it could be a battery problem or it could be a problem with the regulator/rectifier (if the reg/rec isn’t working you will probably be draining the battery when riding).

  12. Hi. I have a xj 600 diversion(92). Is their a setting for the pick up coil to rotor plate please,or does the pick up coil rub against the rotor plate. Many thanks. Dean

  13. hi there – me again after some time – I’ve a ’92 xj600s – 40,000 on the clock – undergoing an MOT at a Yam dealer in St Helens – all fine apart from replacing rear brakes/pads, which I get – silencer has failed – downpipes and mid section appear okay – which could cost in the region of £ 300 to replace – any idea if it’d be cheaper getting the rear section of eBay – is it worth considering a scrappie? Any help gratefully accepted:-)

    1. You can get aftermarket/performance end cans at a reasonable price, BUT, there always going to be fairly expensive as the Divi has 2 exhaust cans (which often means double the price!).
      There is a 2nd hand set on Ebay at present for around £100 (search Ebay for “Yamaha XJ 600 Seca Exhaust System”) which might be a good alternative?

      2nd hand exhausts are a bit of a mixed bag though as if they are the original exhausts they may well be scrap by now anyway (they often suffer from rusted internals, even if they look OK from the outside!).

      1. Hi there – thanks for the speedy response:-)

        yes, seen the exhaust and also one for £ 220 from auto breakers in sheffield – the lower priced one doesn’t look that great and, yes, it’d save £ 193 on what I’ve been quoted by the dealer (new Motad) but I reckon you’re right in questioning the state of the internals – and for the £ 220, just wondering whether it’s worth it to save £ 80 – I think I’m going to bite the proverbial bullet, get the work completed (£ 500 for new battery, rear disk and pads, servicing, new rear silencer and MOT for the year) and at least have confidence that the bike’s fine for whatever the winter’s going to throw at me… any thoughts?

        1. IMHO, £220 is very ‘over the top’ for a 2nd hand set. At that price you’d be better off buying the new ones!

          Re the Motad exhausts, they are exceptional quality (probably the best out there!). They also come with a long warranty (which will probably last longer then the bike!).
          Motad are a UK company and the exhausts are manufactured in the UK, so, in the unlikely event of a problem you can speak to someone in the UK.
          BUT, they are expensive (at the end of the day you get what you pay for!).

          If your using the bike regularly (e.g for commuting to work etc) it’s probably worth paying the £500 for the work and service as you’ll know the bike is good.

          If your keeping the bike and racking up the mileage, it might be worth looking for cheap 2nd hand parts for it, as I know from experience, you can NEVER have enough spare parts lying around (just in case)! 🙂

          1. hi there – thanks for this – i’ve given the ‘go ahead’ to millennium to do the service, replacements and mot – i had to use the train to get to leeds from birmingham sharing the carriage with a load of pissed foreign students…it was awful, took 90 minutes longer than the bike and probably around £ 35 more expensive. so, I don’t care what it costs, the bike’s much better value – agree with the idea of spare parts and i’m compiling a ‘must have’ list as the Divi’s now had a complete engine re-build, new exhaust, new brakes & tyres and had the electrics refreshed – so, it’s going to do for a few years and it is a head turner – pulled up outside ‘get geared’ in Leeds amongst the big, new bikes and had a nice gang of people around the Divi talking wistfully of biking in years gone by…not sure how I feel about “years gone by” but now I’ve decided, feel a lot better and can’t wait to get out and work through another winter – good riding:-)

          2. “took 90 minutes longer than the bike and probably around £35 more expensive…..”

            And there in lies the fundamental problem with British public transport! 🙂

            At about £35 more for the train the bike service should have paid for it’s self in 3 weeks?

  14. I think you’ve just invented a whole new way of looking at economics…bring everything down to an analysis of benefits when compared to riding a bike…I think George Osborne’s looking for a change soon…go to Number 11:-)

  15. Does anyone know the torque settings for the head bolts on a 1997 Yamaha XJ600 4BR?

    A friend just bought an old one and it’s using oil. I haven’t seen it yet but it sounds like I might have to fit new piston rings. Is there anything special to look out for, or any tips/tricks when doing the top-end and cylinders?

    Thanks lads :).

    1. The data we have says the main cylinder head bolts should be tightened to 22nm, the smaller M6 bolts should be tightened to 10nm.
      There’s not really and tricks or tips that I know of, it’s fairly straight forward.

      Just double check whether it’s using or losing oil (you’ll be able to see smoke and smell the burnt oil from the exhaust if it’s burning oil). The oil coolers and pipes can get a bit leaky with age too!

  16. a quick festive feedback about drivers – had the most horrendous ride from Bristol to Liverpool yesterday on my ’92 600 Divi – southern parts of the M5 being really tricky..the nice thing was that car and truck drivers were giving me decent room to be blown around and during my frequent stops many came up and were chatty and lots of ‘good luck’ or ‘you’re crazy:-)’ – many thanks for your advice during the year, bike’s going really well although i’ll be buying some parts from you shortly – all the best guys for xmas:-)!! Arthur

  17. hi i need a bit of advice please iv just got a winter hak yamaha xj 600 diversion 93 with 20 thousand on it and i love it almost as much as my xjr 13 it runs sweet but on start up and tick over it ticks like a grandfather clock on speed then go’s away when it’s warmed up so is this normal on this bike it sounds like the exhaust shims to me or something around that area im a bit confused as i thought that shims got quieter as they got worn. and can you tell me if i can get a power comander for a yamaha xjr 1300 / 07 i can only find them for 08 onwards if not do you think it would be worth trying a nitro fuel chip to try and make it run better i love the bike but hate the injection on it. cheers happy new year

  18. another quickie – just completed 80 mile ride, stopped engine, prepared to dismount, right boot slipped on oil, xj600s came down on top of me, managed to get from under the bike, covered in petrol, set the bike upright, no overt damage apart from broken front rhs indicator. But, when starting bike, engine half starts and then there’s a clunk from inside the engine…there’s some oil (small amount) leaking from the bottom of the engine housing and a very small amount of oil tracking along the top below the plugs. What do you reckon? I’m going to leave the bike for an hour and then start again and see what happens…any ideas??

  19. Hi iv just brought an xj600 first bike looked at it test rode it went in and out of gear fine i rode it home and parked it up went to use it again wont go into any gear at all seems to be stuck in neteral bike has done 28000

  20. Forgive me, as my ignorance about this subject is quite noticeable. I have a 1992 seca II xj600s that I acquired for debt owed to me. The previous owner tweaked the wiring terribly. Can you tell me where I might find a picture of the wiring diagram, preferably for free? Also, without a proper title, can you tell me approximately how much value it would lose if I sell it? With the wiring fixed, I would say the bike is in good/average condition. Also, I’m not sure if it will change the answers, but I am in the United States. Thank you in advance for your time.

    Best regards,
    Carolina

    1. Your best bet for an accurate wiring diagram would be to buy a 2nd hand workshop manual from Ebay or somewhere similar.
      Alternatively, you could ask on one of the Yamaha Diversion forums below:

      http://www.bikersoracle.com/yamahadiversion/forum/

      http://www.xjrider.com/

      diversionclub.proboards.com/

      I’m not really sure about US bike prices (were based in the UK), your best bet would be to look through your local free ads or have a look at completed listings on Ebay to find what they sell/have sold for?

  21. Please Help! Unfortunately, I know next to nothing about motorcycles, but my husband in need of affordable transportation. I am looking at a Yamaha Seca II 600 in the United States, with 18,000 miles on it for $800. Problem is, the owner, who also doesn’t know about bikes, says that he encountered a massive oil leak and believes it to be a blown head gasket. My research does not back this up and has reached a dead end. Could this be an easy fix and a good deal on a reliable bike? Or am I wasting my time?

    1. The price does seem very cheap (that’s not to say it isn’t a good deal, but it may be cheap for a reason!).
      Re the oil leak, it really does depend where the oil is leaking from. Can you or the owner see where the oil is coming from?

      If it is a failed engine gasket causing the leak and you know nothing about motorbikes, I would suggest you check with a local bike garage as to how much replacing the gasket would cost?

  22. Hi there, going to change the fork oil on my Diversion but am getting a little confused with the quantity due to the year, the reg is on a 1999 (T) but bike is coming up as a 1998 4BRE on Yamaha parts website when I type the VIN, haynes is saying 375cc for 1996-1998 and 463cc 1999 onwards, it has 41mm forks any idea which quantity I should use??

  23. I have a 93 seca II xj600 and when I was on the highway at 120km/h it died. I pulled over found that it had blown the 20amp fuse so I replaced it and it would not go down into first gear so I started it inot second and not 100m down the road it did it again. I figure it’s a transmission problem. Any ideas on what it is?

    1. If the fuse is blowing it’s unlikely to be a gearbox problem? Check your charging system (by using a volt meter across the battery terminals) but it will more likely be a bare/crossed wire or faulty electrical part.

      1. Battery is reading 12.7v. I agree with the it not being gearbox after doing some research as to how a gearbox works. Also I tried running it today and it blew the fuse when I pressed the start button. And then twice after that just by turning the key to on but earlier I had the key to on with no problem.

        1. Sounds like you possibly might have a faulty starter solenoid (follow the red/positive lead back from the battery and you’ll find it). Either that or the starter motor is faulty.
          Check the connections are good, clean and undamaged on both. You might want to replace the starter solenoid as these can fail with age.

  24. How do i increase fuel capacity on a divvy ? 17 litres is a bit pathetic. I would like 25 lt capacity.
    Can you buy a bigger tank?

    1. I’ve never seen anyone who sells a bigger tank for the Diversion. You may be able to get your tank modified by a metal fabrication company to make it bigger (might be expensive though)?

  25. Hi, white dog. As you don,t need a gearbox oil as it comes from the engine oil, i,m just miffed on how my gears have become so stiff i can not change gear. can you please help, thank you.

  26. hi white dog , i have recently purchased a 2001 xj600n , bike,s great but i need a new front wheel as the previous owner managed to kerb it , my question is, i have a 18″ front wheel from an early 98 xj600 , with twin discs running a 90/90 / 18 tyre will this fit in my standard forks of 41mm ,? i know it will steer slower but just need to know will it fit ?

  27. I have a 92 xj600. wondering if there is a aftermarket conversion company for the rear forks to get a bigger (wider) tire under there.

  28. Hi the need help desperately just brought an xj600 s diversion cheap as its a non runner (alarm problems) therefore I’ve traced the alarm back & removed the whole thing but still not starting is there a problem with the imibiliser? Does it have an imibiliser? It’s a 2001 model

    1. No, the Diversion didn’t have an immobiliser as standard.
      Double check the wiring where you removed the alarm and make sure all the wires are connected correctly (most good alarm systems will have 2 or 3 ways of immobilising the bike wired in).

  29. Just curious if you might kniw the answer but will the later seca2 complete exhausts i see on ebay fit an earlier 86 xj600?

    Cheers.
    Mikey

  30. hi there ,
    just picked up a 96 xj600 for next to nothing .
    needs a good clean , and is quite rusty in places ,(lack of being looked after)
    rear seat fairing panels broke as normal and the retaining screws are rounded off ,
    any idea where i can get both panels and the screws,

    1. Ebay would be a good place to try for the panels (or you may be able to get them repaired somewhere?). If you have a local motorbike garage try asking them about the screws (if they have a workshop they may have a box of old nuts, bolts and screws you could look through?)

  31. 92 diversion blew over in the wind and lay on its side for ten minutes, picked it up and dusted it down,got it started ok but when I pulled the clutch in and put it into gear it stopped instantly as if it had stalled. Any ideas what caused this? Do I need to adjust the clutch somehow?
    Thanks
    Ronnie

    1. Sounds like the side stand cut out switch might be faulty?
      Have a look around the side stand to see if there’s any damage to the switch or wires (should be near the top of the stand, where it attached to the bike).

  32. Hi. Do the N and the S have the same handlebars? I am fixing up an S and bought a set of handlebars, but the clutch lever keeps hitting the fairing whatever I adjust the positing of the bars in the clamps to! Many thanks. Regards, Andy

    1. I think the XJ600 S (faired version) has slightly higher handlebars compared to the unfaired version (not 100% sure though)?

      Are the bars you bought genuine/original XJ600 S bars or aftermarket ones?

  33. Hi, I have a 92 xj600 diversion which I have been fixing up.

    At first it was not charging so tested the stator, rec/reg (which were fine) then cleaned up all connectors and added an extra ground to the engine. whoop now charging fine on idle.

    But…

    On my model I have an off, running light, normal lights (with hi low beam). but with the lights off and the ignition on my rear light is on (it goes off when bike is switched off). My first thought was brake switches but the brake lights stil flash the rear light. Is this a normal thing with the 92 model or is the rear light stealing power from somewhere?

    Any ideas on a fix would be good.

    Bike is still of road atm – valves and carb sync to do first.

    Cheers

    1. I’m not sure if the rear light was supposed to be on (I did have one of the ’92 models and I don’t remember the light being on?).

      Have a look for any extra wires or modifications going to the rear light as alot can get modified and/or changed over 23 years…

      Also, you might want to check all the wires are intact (not split or corroded) and check the earth connections are good and clean.

      1. As far as I can see there has been no mods to the rear light or wiring loom. I’ve got a led rear light coming I’ll see if it that helps. I know the rear light is attached to the ignition then the handlebar controls.

        As my aux front light doesn’t come on, even though its on the same circuit I am not sure if it’s the rear light.

        1. It has sat out in the Scottish weather for 2 years. Do you think it’s more likely to be issue with ignition, rear light, handlebar unit, wiring (connections have been cleaned but actual wires not checked) or is it standard?

          Cheers

          1. Might be if it’s been sat outside for that long.

            Problem is, if it’s a fault, searching for electrical problems can be like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
            If you have a volt meter, you could try following the wires back from the rear light to see if you can find where it’s getting the electric from?

  34. Cheers for the advice, found the issue in the end. It was a faulty front brake switch. It was letting a very small current through. Weird design on these xj600s just swapped it out for a newer design.

  35. Hi again,

    The bike is now almost completely sorted but i have a backfire into carb 1. I have tried adjusting the mixture both ways and still does the same. What other things could be causing this?

    Cheers

  36. hi I have a 1993 xj600s . loss of compression leads me to believe piston ring failure . finding it really difficult to source a replacement set .. any ideas

  37. Can someone please tell me if the engine out of a 1998 xj600 will fit in a 1992 xj600 look look it might but thanks for the help

  38. Hi.
    I have recently purchased a Divvy 1999 after passing the full bike test.
    Due to my lifestyle, my work and where I ride I do need a biggish top box for the Divvy. However, I don’t want to get one that looks ridiculously too big for the bike.
    So my question is please: what sizes of boxes (in Litres) look suitable for the XJ600 S 1999 ?

  39. Hi Whitedogbikes.

    Some great posts here ~ very informative!

    I’ve just picked up a XJ600s on a 95 plate. The previous owner tried (bless!!) to street fighter it up! Looks unfinished and tbh not sure it could ever look right..? So, I’m looking for full fairing and lights and handlebars. I also want a full luggage rack (back and sides). Any pointers on where to shop..? I’ve been looking in all the usual places, but nothing substantial is popping up. The bike is a maroon version.

    Cheers ✌

  40. Hi Whitedog,

    I have a 1995 XJ600S. It has the single disc front brake & the forks are pitted & leaking badly. I plan to get a good second hand pair.

    Generally the twin disc forks I have seen seem in better condition than the older single disc forks. So do you know if the later twin disc forks will fit into the single disc yokes? Any problems with doing that?

    Appreciated, Dave P

    1. The later models had wider, 41mm forks (instead of 38mm forks), so they won’t fit straight into the yokes 🙁

      Not sure if the twin disc forks are better, they might be less pitted because they are newer (and they had a little, plastic fork protector bit on them)?

      1. Thanks Whitedog,

        After reading your comments I decided to stick with single disc forks. Have sourced a rebuilt pair in good condition – so my forks are sorted now.

        Exhaust is the next problem – original pipes & silencers are rusted through & shot. I’m repairing it on a budget & cheapest I can find is complete Black Widow 4 into 1 stainless system for £245.

        Any experience of Black Widow?
        or
        Is there another supplier I should consider?

        Any thoughts appreciated, Dave P

        1. Unfortunately, I never had any dealings with Black Widow exhausts, so can’t say if they are any good or not.
          You could try Delkevic exhausts, or possibly Motad if they still make them for the XJ600.

          Does look like £250 odd is about what the new exhaust systems go for though…..

  41. An update on the Black Widow Exhaust. After reviewing the market for XJ600 exhausts I went with a Black Widow 4 into 1 stainless exhaust & short silencer. Everything lined up & fitted easily & quality seems good. The pipes tuck away under the engine neatly & the system doesn’t look out of place.

    I did find that with the old silencers gone the main stand stuck out like a sore thumb. So I removed the main stand & just use the kick stand now.

    As I work shifts I didn’t really want a noisy exhaust and was pleased to find that it was actually quite quiet. Although it does have more of a growl when accelerating. (For some reason I had assumed that an after market exhaust would be louder than the original system but not the case).

    So overall I’m pleased with the choice.

  42. Hi White Dog Bikes. Having just carried out a top end rebuild on my partners 99 Xj600s divvy I have a question about tappet noise. When rebuilding I found the exhaust clearance too tight at 0.15mm so reduced the shim size to give the correct clearance of 0.25mm however they are now noisier than they were before. Are they inherently noisey on this model? I have double checked all the clearances and they are spot on. Am I worrying unnecessarily? Cheers in advance for your help.

    1. They shouldn’t be noiser then they were before and, as far as I know (could be wrong though!), the engines aren’t known for excessively noisey top ends?

      What’s the mileage on the bike and what weight oil has it been running on (10w40 semi synth etc)?

      1. Hi, the clearances were a too tight at 0.15mm. It’s running the correct spec 10w40 oil with a fresh filter. It’s the outer two exhaust tappets that are noisey and these are now set at 0.23mm and 0.25mm. I’ve had a look at YouTube videos and most seem to have fairly noisey tappets??

  43. Hello, I have a 1995 Diversion and have serviced the carbs. They were clogged with that stuff they call Ethanol. Here in France they advise that any vehicle prior to 2000 should not use E10 only E5. However the pipework was removed prior to this and I am trying to ascertain where all the pipes go. Primarily there is 2 pipes splitting into 4 via “y” pieces then going somewhere on the carbs. Does anyone have a camera they could photo the pipework and post it so I can get this bike up and going. It is a french model with only 11,000 K on the clock (7000 Miles) stored in a garage for15 years. The pipes had disintegrated so required replacement. I have not yet found any description of how they are connected. Any help would be appreciated.

  44. Hi WhiteDog,
    I have a 95 high mileage XJ600 bike (76K) & the cam chain is making an awful noise. So I’m thinking of replacing the engine over winter. I have found another engine with 18K on the clock but it’s a newer motor with an oil cooler. So my questions are….

    Will I have any problems fitting the later engine – physically, carbs & wiring wise?
    Also I don’t have an oil cooler rad. So could I just run a hose between the rad in & out connection. Or do I need to actually buy & fit an oil cooler Rad.

    Any suggestions or advise welcome, DaveP

  45. I have the same problem. I have a fantastic 1993 s and I have a chance to buy a 1999 engine replacement with oil cooler pipes. I need to know exactly the same as you. so if anyone out there can help . please let me know. steve.

  46. How do you manage to change an oil filter without dropping the exhausts? The one fitted to my XJ600 (HF303) seems to sit so tight tight up to the pipes that even if you got it to turn it would never unscrew far enough to clear the mounting. I wondered if fitting a shorter one (50 mm rather than 73mm) would be OK; I think the Fazer uses
    something simular.
    Regards Dick

    1. You should have the clearance to remove the filter without removing the downpipes, if you haven’t has your bike got aftermarket headers?
      I think, the Hiflo HF204 might be a shorter version of the filter (might not make enough difference if your that short on space though)?

  47. Hi ,
    Thanks for the info. The bike has the original crossover downpipes, I will probably try an original Yamaha
    filter but there is no way I will be able to remove the existing filter without dropping the pipes. Looks like
    a simply job but experience tells me that there is always an unforseen snag somewhere.

    Regards Dick

  48. A brother just gave me his Y Yamaha Xj 600 after hearing me saying want to do a 6000 km round scenic road trip. However he had it in a workshop to replace piston rings and the mechanic lost a shim,that made me start searching the net and am glad i ended up on white dog bikes,learnt a lot.

  49. I am trying to find out the length of the spring for a 97 XJ600N centre stand as mine has gone slack and it keeps bouncing (not a nice feeling lol) when blatting along

  50. You say nothing about the Exhaust system and their special downpipes.

    great blog tho except for i didnt find what i was looking for.

  51. Hi there your article is really helpfull. I own 2001 XJ600S division . The front calliper pistons have seized. Having problems on internet to get repairs kit, can they be purchased in complete kit form or have to buy individual piston and seals.would be grateful for advice.
    Kind regards Ralph.

  52. Hi , just been gifted an old Yamaha XJ 600 with very low mileage 5000/6000 miles it’s in very clean condition, my question is how should I proceed with a motorcycle that has sat idol for Seven or Eight years, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards Ronnie..

    1. It’ll need a new battery, you should also change the engine oil and filter (also check the air filter).
      Also make sure any old fuel is drained out of the tank and carb (there’s a little drain screw on the bottom of the carb float bowls) and put fresh fuel in, with any luck it should start if it was running when laid up?

  53. Hello. I want to change engine oil, filter and exhaust on my R reg xj600. What would you recommend? What type of oil: semi-syntetic, fully syntetic or mineral oil? Also any advice about exhaust? Thanks)

    1. Personally, I’d go for a recognised brand motorcycle semi-synthetic 10w40 oil. Although fully synthetic is the best and will protect your engine better, it can be expensive so a semi synthetic oil is a good balance between cost and protection (more info…).

      There are a fair few stainless steel replacement exhausts on Ebay, although it’s been a few years since I dealt with them, Delkevic Exhausts were fairly good (link below):
      Exhausts on Ebay…

      1. I was looking for Delkevic full exhaust systems but they don’t have 300mm end pipe. I would want to get the loudest road legal exhaust that’s possible. Black widow do make 300mm end pipes. What about 10w50 or 20w40 oil?

        1. You could use a 10w50, although a 10w40 would be fine and 10w50 tends to be more expensive (it’s the recommended oil in some newer bikes and has more additives etc in it).

          I wouldn’t recommend using a 20w40 or a 20w50, this is a thicker oil when cold and isn’t ideally suited to XJ600 (inline 4 cylinder) engines.

          1. Last time when i changed oil i used Motul 7100 10w50. I would want to try another brand. I guess there is something better than Motul. I am not sure about that.

          2. There are alot of different opinions, I can only really comment on the few brands I’ve sold (which makes me a bit biased?).
            As long as you stick with a well known brand (like Silkolene, Castrol, Shell, Rock Oil etc) the oil should be fine.

            Any particular reason you want to use a 10w50 oil (instead of a 10w40)?

  54. I would say because of the temperature of the engine. It is higher than on liquid cooled bikes. However, i bought Silkolene 10w40. Hopefully i will like it more than Motul 10w50 and my bike as well. I ride my bike for whole year. At winter it takes a bit longer to warm up 10w50 oil. When it is warm, everything is fine. Oil level light doesn’t come on if i warm it up for ~5 minutes. I will see how it will work. I have ordered Black widow 4-1 stainless steel exhaust as well. I will let you know what i think about their exhausts when i recieve it. Thanks for the information)

  55. Hi Whitey

    Are the brake pads of the twin discs model the same as the single disc model ? To know if I can fit them in my front brake caliper (4BR). I suppose for the rear they are the same?

    Cheers

    1. The brake pads were different on the single disc and twin dies models so they aren’t interchangeable between the calipers (the single disc model used EBC FA179 pads, the twin disc used EBC FA199 pads).

  56. Hi I have just bought a 97- 600 divvy. I love it. I had a 1300 pan which I hated. A few questions please. The bike seems to lack power, it’s slow acceleration. When I can changing the airfilter I noticed that the sliders can only be pushed up about a 1/4 of the way up ,has it been restricted?
    Also when it warms up I get a sort of tapping noise coming from somewhere. It’s not the clutch as it’s still there when I pull it in.
    I was told ok t could be the camchain. Any ideas?

    1. The Diversions were never the quickest of bikes, but if the carb slides are only going up a 1/4 of the way it could be restricted (probably to 33bhp as this is the beginners limit for younger riders).

      The tapping could be the cam chain or the cam chain tensioner, what’s the mileage on the bike and has the cam chain or tensioner ever been changed?

  57. Hi thanks for the reply. The bike has 41k miles. It hasn’t any history with it. But it was standing for a few years before I bought it.
    If it has been restricted how can I remove the restrictions? I don’t know if the tensioner or chain has been changed.
    Thanks

    1. I’m not sure about the restriction to be honest, if it’s in the carb you may be able to remove it (that’s IF it is restricted?).

      At 41k miles I’d replace the tensioner to start as it may not have been replaced. The cam chain should still be ok (I’m not sure of the exact time/mileage for a cam chain change).
      But, it may also need the valve shims servicing (as they can cause a tapping noise when worn)…..

  58. Thanks for getting back to me. All those jobs are on my to-do list. A new one I have discovered recently…in top gear a noise comes out of the bike, like a whirring I guess. Could this be worn gears, it says 6 gear on the case, I’m pretty sure it has 5.

    1. Unless you’ve got an engine from a different bike (which is unlikely), you should have 6 gears. If you’ve lost 6th gear, the gearbox may be on it’s way out or be in need of repair (I’m not experienced with gearbox mechanics, so don’t know what the problem could be).
      Same goes for the whirring I’d guess?

  59. Hi i brought. 93 xj 600s diversion and just this week its started to give me problems, i brought a new battery thinking it would solve the problem but no, the battery keeps losing it’s power over night ori can only get 10 miles out of it before its dead and needs charging again any ideas as im running out of ideas what it could be
    Many thanks andy

  60. Hi. It sounds like a bad earth or a short somewhere. Check the earth’s and for any burnt out wires rubbing together. Good luck

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