Kawasaki ZX6R F Ninja Specs and Info

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1997 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

Servicing your bike? You’ll need a ZX6R workshop manual…

Kawasaki ZX6R Ninja Specs…..

The Kawasaki ZX6-R Ninja (F1, F2 and F3 models) was a fully faired sports bike produced in the UK in the UK between 1995 and 1998. The ZX6R F was very similar in style to the ZX9R Ninja released in 1994 and used the same ram air intake system (a system that was originally developed for the ZZR1100 in 1990)

The ZX6R F had 100bhp and a claimed 0-60 time of 3.6 seconds. It was replaced in 1998 by the ZX6R G model.

Basic model info…

Manufacturer: Kawasaki
Model: ZX6R F
CC: 599cc
Engine type: Inline 4 cylinder (4 stroke)
Years in production: 1995 to 1998
Frame number: Started – ZX600F—-
Kawasaki model code: ZX600F
Style of bike: Sports bike (fully faired)
Insurance: Group 14 (of 17) – Insurance qoutes going up every year? Save money at Confused.com
Replaced by: ZX6R G Ninja

Looking for ZX6R Ninja parts? Buy ZX6R Ninja spares on Amazon…

ZX6R Ninja side view
Side view of a 1997 Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja.

A little bit about the Kawasaki ZX6-R F Ninja…

Models and years (in the UK)

ZX-6R Ninja F1 (January 1995 to November 1995)…
Model: ZX600-F1
Frame number started: ZX600F-000001—-
Description: 599cc Supersport bike with monoshock rear suspension, box section rear swing arm, 41mm cartridge style front forks, lightweight aluminium frame, full race fairing with 2 air duct inlets under the single front headlight, ‘Ninja’ logo on the tailpiece, ‘ZX-6R’ logo on the front fairing and 2 piece race pad style seat.
Available colours: Green/white or purple/red
Cost new: £6595 for an ‘M’ reg model and £6825 for an ‘N’ reg model
ZX-6R Ninja F2 (December 1995 to October 1996)…
Model: ZX600-F2
Frame number started: ZX600F-017001—-
Description: Same as above model but with new graphics.
Available colours: Green/white (with an all green belly pan) or ebony/grey
Cost new: £7195 for an ‘N’ reg model and £7195 for a ‘P’ reg model
ZX-6R Ninja F3 (November 1996 to February 1998)…
Model: ZX600-F3
Frame number started: ZX600F-030001—-
Description: Same as above model but with a slightly modified exhaust.
Available colours: Red, green or galaxy silver
Cost new: £7195 for an ‘P’ reg model and £7195 for a ‘R’ reg model

ZX6R Ninja F3 front fairing
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja with the twin air inlets under the headlight.

Engine and gearbox stuff…
Displacement: 599 cc (36.55 cubic inches)
Engine type: Inline four cylinder, four-stroke
Number of cylinders: 4
Cylinder firing order: 1 – 2 – 4 – 3
Power: 105.00 HP (76.6 kw) @ 12500 RPM
Torque: 65.00 Nm (6.6 kgf-m or 47.9 ft.lbs) @ 10000 RPM
Top speed: 161.6 mph….Ish! (260.0 km/h)
Bore x stroke: 66 x 43
Clearance between piston ring and cylinder bore: 0.040mm (when new) to 0.072mm (max clearance)
Valves per cylinder: 4 (16 valves in total)
Inlet valve clearance (with cold engine): 0.15mm to 0.24mm
Exhaust valve clearance (with cold engine): 0.22mm to 0.31mm
Cam shafts: Double overhead cams (DOHC)
Fuel type: Petrol (suitable for unleaded petrol)
Engine oil capacity: 3.6 litres
Oil pressure: 1.2 to 1.8 bar
Recommended engine oil: 10w40 Semi synthetic
Engine oil filter capacity: 0.2 litres
Oil filter: Hiflo HF303 / Champion F306
Oil change interval: 5000km or 12 months
Cooling system: Liquid cooled
Cooling system capacity: 2.1 litres
Cooling system change interval: Change every 30,000km or 24 months
Gearbox: 6 speed (1st gear down, 2 to 6 gears up. Neutral between 1st and 2nd gear)
Clutch: Wet, multi plate type clutch
Clutch part no: EBC CK4503 (plates) and EBC CSK56 (springs)

Note: You’ll need a clutch holding tool for removing it, a clutch lever if you’ve dropped it and possibly a clutch cable if it’s suddenly stopped working!

Final drive stuff…
Final drive: chain
Chain length: 106 links (note: some parts books list 108 links!)
Chain pitch: 525
Free play: 35 to 40mm
Front sprocket: 15
Rear sprocket: 40
Fuel and carb stuff…
Fuel type: Petrol (suitable for unleaded petrol)
Recommended fuel: 4 stroke / 95 octane
Carb: Keihin CVKD36 (x 4)
Idle speed: 1050rpm (+/- 50rpm)

ZX6R Ninja engine
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja engine (599cc, inline 4 cylinder).

Suspension, brakes and wheel stuff…
Front brakes: Twin (dual) discs
Front brake caliper: Tokico 4 pot caliper
Front disc part numbers: EBC MD4008LS (left disc) and MD4008RS (right disc)
Front brake pad part number: EBC FA158
Rear brake: Single disc
Rear brake caliper: Tokico 1 (single) pot caliper
Rear disc part number: EBC MD4023
Rear brake pad part number: EBC FA192
Recommended brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
Brake fluid change interval: Check every 5,000km and change every 20,000km or 24 months
Front wheel: 3 Spoke cast
Front tyre size: 120/60-17
Front tyre pressure: 36psi
Rear wheel: 3 spoke cast
Rear tyre size: 160/60-17
Rear tyre pressure: 42psi
Front suspension: 41mm Telescopic forks
Stanchion diameter: 41mm
Recommended fork oil: Medium – 10w Fork oil
Fork oil capacity: 377 to 385 cm3
Fork oil change interval: 30,000 km or 24 months

ZX6R Ninja side view
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja rear/side view.

Weights ‘n measures…
Dry weight: 182 kg (401.2 pounds)
Power/weight ratio: 0.5769 HP/kg
Seat height: 810 mm (31.9 inches)
Wheelbase: 1400mm
Fuel tank capacity: 18 litres

Kawasaki ZX6R F clocks
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja clocks.

Electrical stuff…
Starter: Electric starter motor
System voltage: 12 volts
Max alternator output: 24amps at 8000rpm
Regulated voltage: 15 volts (regulator / rectifier)
Voltage capacity: 12volts / 10amps
Battery: YTX12-BS / CTX12-BS / DTX12-BS
Ignition type: Electronic CDI (part no: 211191433 and J4T054717715)
Spark controlled by: 4 x coil
Spark plug: NGK CR9E / Denso U27ESR-N / Champion G59C
Spark plug gaps: NGK 0.7 to 0.8mm / Denso 0.7 to 0.8mm / Champion 0.6mm
Ignition timing (BTDC): 12.5 degrees at 1050rpm
Max ignition advance: 35 degrees at 5000rpm

ZX6R Ninja engine
Front view of a 1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja engine.

Servicing stuff…
If your new to servicing or unsure, either ask a friend to help or get a ZX6R Ninja workshop manual…
Engine oil change:
Oil change interval: 5000km (3107 miles) or 12 months
Engine oil capacity: 3.6 litres
Engine oil filter capacity: 0.2 litres
Recommended engine oil: 10w40 Semi synthetic

You can use mineral and fully synthetic engine oils in the ZX6R. We don’t normally recommend mineral oils as they offer the lowest levels of protection for the engine (so if you are using a mineral oil make sure you change it often!). Good fully synthetic oils (from well recognised brands like Shell, Silkolene, Rock Oil, Castrol etc) are fine for use in the ZX6R, and they offer the highest levels of protection for the moving parts, but, the cost can be prohibitive (you get what you pay for, good oil ain’t cheap baby! :-p ). More info about different oil types can be found HERE.

Oil filter: Hiflo HF303 / Champion F306
Air filter:
Air filter: Kawasaki part no: 11013-1240 / Hiflo HFA2603
Spark plugs:
Spark plug: 4 x NGK CR9E / Denso U27ESR-N / Champion G59C
Cooling system:
Cooling system: Liquid cooled
Cooling system capacity: 2.1 litres
Cooling system change interval: Change every 30,000km (18645 miles) or 24 months
Brake fluid:
Recommended brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
Brake fluid change interval: Check every 5,000km (3106 miles) and change every 20,000km (12427 miles) or 24 months
Front forks:
Recommended fork oil: Medium – 10w Fork oil
Fork oil capacity: 377 to 385 cm3
Fork oil change interval: 30,000km (18641 miles) or 24 months
Fork seals (US): ZX6R fork seals
Fork seals (UK): ZX6R fork seals
Chain drive
Final drive chain frequency: Now repeat after me…..’I MUST LUBE MY CHAIN LITTLE AND OFTEN!!’ 🙂
Useful tightening torques…
Cylinder head (1st stage): M10 bolts, 49nm
Cylinder head (2nd stage): M6 bolts, 12nm
Cam cover: 10nm
Magneto / flywheel: 110nm
Crankshaft sprocket: 125nm
Clutch hub: 130nm
Spark plug: 13nm
Front wheel spindle: 110nm
Front wheel spindle clamp (the ones in the fork leg): 20nm
Rear wheel spindle: 110nm

ZX6R Ninja side and rear view
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja side and rear view with Micron exhaust system.

Useless stuff…
When the Kwak ZX6R Ninja was launched in 1995, it was the 1st middle weight sports bike since the 1992 Suzuki GSXR600 to have an aluminium frame and was capable of going from 0 to 60mph in 3.6 seconds!

Majority of the parts were the same on the Kawasaki ZX6-R Ninja F1, F2 and F3 models (released in the UK from Jan 95 to Feb 98) except for a few colour and graphic changes on the bodywork and the exhaust was slightly different on the F3 model.

ZX6R Ninja rear shock
1997 (‘R’ reg) Kawasaki ZX6R F3 Ninja rear shock absorber.

Buying advice…
Not much to worry about with the ZX6R F as they were fairly bulletproof! Obviously, as with all sports bikes, avoid ex race bikes as they will have been hammered, also check ‘collar and cuffs’ match (frame number on the bike and logbook) as these were fairly popular amongst bike thieves and look for crash damage (although the bike was fairly strong and could take a bit of a knock!).
Fuel components can give odd problems so check for leaks etc and, if the bike is still running the original exhaust downpipes budget for a new set as most of the original exhaust headers will have fallen foul of the old rust devil by now, mainly due to the fact the original downpipes were mild steel (brand new Motad ZX6R Ninja Stainless Steel Headers are available, but baby, they AIN’T cheap!!)

Kawasaki ZX6R Ninja F3 spares…..

Sources / Thanks to…
ZX6R article on Wikipedia

If you’ve got any questions or comments please feel free to leave them below 🙂

Disclaimer: The information on this page is correct to the best of our knowledge. But the info should NOT be taken as 100% accurate as we can, occasionally make mistakes!

114 thoughts on “Kawasaki ZX6R F Ninja Specs and Info”

  1. Do you have the fairings and air intake covers (fairings laying horizontal that cover the tubes going from the front fairing to the frame). Thanks

    1. Hello, sorry, the headers have already been sold.

      Try contacting a company called Motad (www.motad.co.uk) as they still make downpipes for the ZX6R F.

    1. Unfortunately, the shock has already been sold.

      I’m not sure if the 1997 ZX7R shock goes straight in a ZX6R. I’ve never tried to do it (so can’t say for certain) but all the parts books we have list different shocks and part numbers for the ZX6R and ZX7R (helpfully, they don’t say why they are different though!).

  2. Hi, I’m after Clutch/Braker leavers and pegs for the Zx6r F3 if you’ve got them? Also have you still got the thing that goes over the pillion seat? (can’t remember what it’s called)

  3. Hey, i bought a zx6r f3 just over a week ago with 34k miles and
    It was running ok untill yesterday when it just cut out an would not start again
    I’ve looked as to what the problem could be and it sounds like the
    Side stand switch possibly sensor.. Only problem is i’m not sure how to fix it..
    Any ideas?

    1. You can’t really ‘fix’ the side stand switch but it can be easily replaced.
      If you look at the top of the side stand you should see the switch. There’s normally either 2 screws or 2 bolts that hold it in place. The switch looks similar to the switch below (although the one below is off a ZXR400!):
      ZXR400 Switch

  4. Hey guys, the other day my speedometer stopped working and the miles aren’t ticking over but the rev counter and temperature gauge still work, i’ve checked for any lose connections and nothing.. Any ideas what could be wrong?

    1. You’ve probably got either a broken speedo cable or seized speedo drive.
      The speedo cable is the one that goes from the back of the clocks to one side of the front wheel. Disconnect it from the wheel and pull the inner cable out. If it looks snapped, damaged or alot shorter then it should be it’s probably the cable.

      You’ll also need to check the speedo drive (as a seized drive can snap the speedo cable!). The drive is the little round device on the front spindle (it goes on the side of the front wheel). You’ll need to take the front spindle and wheel out of the forks to inspect it (there’s a pic of a speedo drive from another Kawasaki below so you know what your looking for):
      ZXR Speedo drive
      The drive should spin smoothly and freely with no snagging and there shouldn’t be any damage or broken bits of metal or plastic on it.
      It always helps to greatly prolong the life of the speedo drive and cable if there removed, cleaned and greased every so often.

      The rev counter and temp clocks work on electric circuits (instead of a mechanical drive, like the speedo), so these can still be working even if the speedo isn’t.

      Hope this helps!

  5. hi odd one its not about buying parts but would you know how to drain the oil on the front forks need to bee softened up fr the mot :/

    1. If you take the front wheel and wheel spindle out there’s an allen bolt sunk into the bottom of the fork (the bolt would be just above where the spindle goes through the fork).
      You will probably have to take the fork out to see and get to the bolt.
      The bolts aren’t secured to a fixed hole inside the fork, although they can be removed with an allen key sometimes you may need an air compressor and impact gun the remove the bolt.

    2. I’m thinking of buying a 95 Kawasaki ninja 600 it has 32k on it and has never been rebuilt. How many miles do the motors usually last?

  6. Hi there,

    Im not sure if you can help me here, and some will think ‘what does it matter’ but its bugging me..
    I have a ZX6 F2 that according to my info is an F2 (VIN number matched against the service manual & your website) but the mfg date is 11/95 and it was purchased in New Zealand on the 29th Nov ’95.. So that makes it in the manual and your site as an F1. Or is it just a case that the dates are a little blurred and its one of the 1st F2’s

    Cheers for reading this – hope you can shed some light on this for me.

    1. It can sometimes be a bit tricky matching frame numbers to models as different countries had the bikes imported at different times? The data we have should be fairly accurate for UK bikes, but might not be accurate for other countries.
      There are also some bikes released before the official date (it’s not uncommon now to buy 2013’s model in 2012 etc), also some bikes are released early for press testing etc.
      There can be dd registration anomalies with some import bikes (as many countries seem to rely on the fact that the importer has the correct info and docs) and some stolen bikes where the frame number has been rung….

      In all honesty though, the ZX6R F1 and F2 models were the same apart from the colours.

    1. I don’t know if the sprockets would physically fit a ZX6R F3, but the chain is shorter on the ZX6R and the ZX7R and ZX6R F have different numbers of teeth on the sprockets (which may mess up the gearing?).

  7. Do you have any front right brake calipers available?

    Mine has just split around the bleed nipple. Typical as my mot was booked for tomorrow. @R5E!!

  8. Hi guys, did this bike mainly the F3 model come
    With a number plate light as standard? Or should i
    Look into getting one for my MOT?



  9. Hi there, are you able to tell me the size of the bolts that secure the calipers to the forks? I can’t find the answer anywhere online.
    Many thanks.

    P.s : love the site btw, these bikes are awesome and if looked after are still one of the best of their age.

    1. Unfortunately, I don’t think we’ve got any of the caliper bolts left to measure them? I’ve just had a look through our info books and none of them list the bolt size either (just the tightening torques) 🙁

    1. Well, if the info I have is correct (front/ rear sprockets for the 95 to 97 should be 15/ 40 teeth), a 47 tooth rear sprocket should pull your arms out of their sockets (but will also greatly reduce the top speed)!!

      You would probably be better either using a 1 tooth smaller sprocket on the front or a 2 to 3 tooth bigger on the back to start with if your looking to increase acceleration?

  10. I’m not too bothered about top speed as i hardly go over 70mph anyway.
    I’m looking for a sprocket which will just make the bike wheelie from just the power
    As i’m looking into making it a stunt bike!
    Is a 47t too much for that? Or would you suggest a 45t?

    Cheers again


  11. Hi, iv just bought a zx600 f3 and the water level was a bit low so i topped it up with water ,is it ok to mix water with the coolant they use these day,s im having a mid/life crises and go a fast bike lol,and its my first liquid cool and i hope i haven,t dun the wrong thing…….???……………..MARK

    1. It should be ok to mix water into the coolant.
      It’s not really ideal to use plain water in the cooling system though, but you can mix most coolants without problems (as well as protecting and stopping corrosion in the cooling system, the coolant also stops the liquid freezing in the winter, if you dilute it too much it may freeze?).

      If you have to put water in the system again, I would personally use distilled water (not tap water).

  12. Trying to find a spare rear rim for my 1995 zx6r raceike but seems hard to find one. Any idea what other models will fit?

    1. It MAY be the same as the 1995 Kawasaki ZX7 (ZX750-L3 model), but I can’t say for definite!
      If it’s any help the part numbers for the rear wheels were 41073-1495 and 41073-1547.

  13. I don’t know much about bikes but I’ve acquired a Kawasaki engine engine with the numbers starting ZX600F. It was removed from a wrecked bike and supposed to run good. Fuel system removed. Any idea what its worth and who would want it? Thanks.

  14. Let’s go with this what do you have left on the bike so I can determine if I can get anything

  15. Howdy Whitedogbikes,
    You seem to have a wealth of knowledge on these bikes ! I have a 95 ZX6R F1 with 3rd gear rounded dog issues (may also be a worn shift fork too). I was thinking of replacing the trans internals with a good second hand set, will the ZX6R 98-02 trans internals swap over to the 95 ? (F1-F3 parts are getting harder to find here locally in Australia)

    1. To be honest I don’t know if the gears are the same.

      You could try looking on the Ron Ayers website as I think they have the part diagrams for the F and G models on there (you might be able to check the specs and/or part numbers of the 2 bikes to see if they match?).

  16. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could use a Gauge Cluster from a
    97 Kawasaki Ninja ZX7 ZX-7R ZX7R , for my 1996 Kawasaki ZX7R 750. I know that most fairings are interchangeable from 96-2003 but majority of the other parts of off by a millimeter or more. Thank you and I appreciate any and all of your input.

    1. Yes, it should fit. There was only a colour change (and maybe a few minor mods?) between the 1996/1997 (P1 and P2) models.

      Kawasaki also list the same part numbers for the 96/97 model clocks.

  17. Hi I have a zx6r f3 97. Its been running fine with no major issues but I went to start it the other day and there was nothing, the ignition lights come on the head lights work, so im thinking battery is fine. This has happened once before but after I moved the bike it then started. I can jump start it but thats a pain in the bum lol. I was thinking starter motor but a friend suggested looking at fuses. What do you think?


    1. It’s unlikely to be the fuses as you would have other systems out on the bike as well (unlike a car, bikes only have a few fuses, not a specific one for the starter motor).
      I would check that your battery terminal bolts are very tight and your battery leads are fitting properly as the problem you have can be caused if the battery bolts aren’t tight.

      If the bolts and leads are attached securely, is there a repeating clicking noise when you press the starter button if the starter motor isn’t working?

    1. The clicking sound usually means there’s not enough power in the battery to start the bike (there’s enough power to activate the starter relay, hence the clicking sound, but not enough to turn the starter motor over).

      I would 1st check the battery leads are connected firmly (mainly because you said you moved the bike and it started), if there ok you might want to get a volt meter to check the battery (less then 12.4 volts and it will struggle t start the bike, a healthy battery should be over 12.8 volts).

  18. Hi
    I have taken the tank off my 1996 F3 some time ago- when refitting I cannot remember which pipe attaches to which tank nipple- I assume one is the ‘On’ and the other is the ‘Reserve’- is there an easy way of identifying which should go where? Thanks Nick

  19. Hey guys, got a 1997 f3, I took the fuel tank off and now it’s all back together the bike ran fine for about 10 mins and now it’s like it’s not getting fuel anymore, I’ve checked the pipes and they’re not kinked or anything, just wondering if there is a fuel bleed or anything I need to do, turning the starter over doesn’t seem to be doing a lot

    1. I had the same problem with my ZX 6R – F3 few months ago. It caused of the fuel pump not working properly. Try to check your fuel pump, use solid small wire to connect directly the red wire (+) terminal of the fuel pump socket to the positive ( + ) terminal of the battery. The good fuel pump will run and automatically stop when the carbs was full of fuel.

  20. I know this hasn’t been used in a while but I need help……I changed my head gasket and rocker cover gasket and now by bike wont start any one have any suggestions.

    1. Does the bike turn over?
      Do you have a good spark at the plugs?
      Is fuel getting into the cylinder?
      Is the compression ok?
      Have you adjusted or moved anything to do with the cam shafts?

  21. High I know this is a long shot but I have an p reg f3 complete with new fairings on it it’s been in storage for ten year because I moved on to bigge ninjas also my freind dropped it and bent he gear selector fork so it only selects first and no gears up but it’s an easy fix audviously it hasn’t been started or dro e for a long time but everything is on it and in great nick would anyone be interested in buying it I was always going to get it going as it was REALY fast I don’t know if I was imported as I oesnt seem to have a limiter on it but I’m not sure I’ve drove and owned other and newer zx6 ninjas and it’s definatley th fastest one iv driven I would also consider braking it but to be honest I REALY think that it would be a waste of a good bike

  22. I am trying to find out if the frames from the 2000 to 2003 Kawasaki ZX 6 zx 7 zx9r all the same I want to change the front of my bike I don’t like the light setup but I like the lights on the 636 and R6

  23. hello sir.. i just bought a 97 zx6r f3.. my bike stop running and engine is dead when the temp gauge reach half.. or when i had a long ride..the bike does jerking n pulling back n forth when i give it more gas.. then the engine will suddently dead when i pull the clutch lever.. when its dead it can never be started again..it wont run.. but after it cool down… it can easily start n running well.. like no problem at all..for your information, ive change the rectifier.. do the carb cleaning n tuning.. also check the battery voltage when running 15v++ also on load .. 12v++ when the ignition key on(using a volt meter).. i also done my fuel pump check.. its running well like shower.. so do u have any idea is it the ignition coil failure? or pickup coil? or is there anything else? im realy need your help and your opinion..
    -im sorry for my bad english writing-
    from malaysia

    1. and FYI.. it really hard to find the ignition coil and pickup coil for zx6r f here in malysia.. any suggestion which bike does had the same ignition coil as the zx6r… mybe a zxr750j .. or zx7r… or mybe zzr600 c,d,e kinda need an urgent answer from u sir…

        1. thanks for replying… it is pickup coik problem… im using a ninja 250 r pickup coil…but it need a little modification… as it is shorter than zx6r pickup… and for a little information theres no other pickup that matches the zx6r f3 pickup coil… only this ninja 250r can be use…. thank you sir.. my bike running well aftee changing pickp.coil.. but after 400++km.. another problem occur… the intake valve leak .. and running with 3cylinder.. now again stuck with getting part problem…lol…

    2. Is the fuel actually getting from the pump into the carb….Could be a fueling problem, you might want to check the fuel pipes for damage and check they are routed correctly?

      Failing that, what was the last part of the bike you worked on before the problem started?

      1. before problem start… i sent my bike to shop for valve clearance…actly i just rcently bought this monster…so… little knowledge about this bike..

  24. man..unfortunately my f3 suffering compression leak.. maybe a valve leak or piston ring problem…. can u email me a guide book or Service manual so that i can do top overhaul or major overhaul… here is my e-mail aay9283@gmail.com…. i really need a guide to do it…cuz ive never done it on bikes…. only car.
    lots of thanks for your help and kindness…. ill be waiting for your email…

      1. ok.. ive got it…thanks… now im doing top overhaul on my zx6… unfortunately… almost all of my intake valve is already sink into the head… so.. the valve cannot be use anymore… also the 4th piston ring also damaged.. hard to find parts here… anyway thanks for erything sir…. hope my baby will be fine soon..and i can ride again…

  25. Hi, can you please tell me if the brake callipers from another model zx-6r would fit my zx-6r G/1999 model? Just incase I cant get the original ones. I was bleeding them and the right hand side ones nipple point on the calliper broke off the callipers casing? I would appreciate any help you could give me….

  26. Hi I’ve purchased a 1996 zx6r the rear caliper carrier has a lot of play it looks as though a retainer or something is missing a pin comes off the swing arm and into a cutout into the bracket but has a lot of play is their supposed to be some kind of retainer or something their ? Cheers

  27. Hiya
    I have an f3 and the brakes are pants. I have read a few people have issues and have changed most things but nothing works. I obviously have the 4 pot toks and bled many times but no good. Any upgrades you know of? I thought of changing the brake lever/master cylinder to a 17mm piston I have see on ebay, what does this mean and would it help. Turning the bike into a track day bike so any places I can get bits from to upgrade would be much appreciated.

  28. Hi, please could you tell me if the exhaust headers from a “g” model fit the “f3” model? Thanks

  29. Hi do u have any parts for a zx6r 1988 model i,m after 2 side panels and seat please if so how much including p&p cheers

  30. Do you have the clutch rod pin for a 1995 zx6r? or know if there are any from other model years that are interchangeable?

  31. I have a 1998 ZX6R G17 and I need to replace the main frame to get it registered, as it was a repairable write off. I can buy a clean titled 1997 ZX6R E10 main frame. The million dollar question is will it be interchangeable. These are in Australia and I have the full chassis serial numbers for both frames.
    Do you know of anyone who has done this or who can diffidently tell me if it is possible just through using the serial numbers? Are you able to ring the local Kawasaki Dealer and get this confirmed?

    Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

    1. If you mean are the 1998 ZX6R G1 and 1997 ZX6R F3 frames interchangeable, no, there not.
      The model had loads of changes and updates between the F and G models including different steering geometry (meaning the frames likely to be a slightly different shape), different foot peg mountings, different fairing mountings and the G models had a bolt on subframe (and other changes).

      I haven’t got a clue about registering them or Kawasaki dealers in Oz unfortunately (we are a fair few miles away in the UK?).

  32. Hi, I need help…. so does my bike!!! I have a 1996 ZX6 F2. It was running reasonably until February, then I left it for a coupe of months. It won’t start! It turns over beautifully on the starter. There is the occasional big backfire. It doesn’t smell excessively of fuel. I have been troubleshooting for 3 months!!!! I have taken the following steps and have these results:
    Sonically cleaned carbs. Rough check on carb setup and float levels. Fuel pump works as I believe it should. Fuel pipes aren’t blocked. So there should be fuel!
    Cleaned air filter and checked ducting and carb operation. There should be air!
    The spark plugs only produce an orange spark and the spark plug tester set to 6mm gets an orange spark too (except on number 3, no spark). The plugs are about 5 hours running old and of correct spec. All plugs are gapped correctly. The colour of the plugs after extensive cranking over is browny black but not sooty/wet or oily. The plug cap resistance are all approx 4.6 ohms (in limits). Secondary coil resistance measured via HT leads as specified are all approx 15KOhms (within limits), the coil primary resistance is 3.2 ohms (on limits), The battery is giving 10.7V when cranking over. Wiring connections have been checked and wiring has been extensively checked for continuity and shorting. The pick up coil is 474 Oms (within limits). Alternator stator coils all have 0.5Ohms between them (within limits). I haven’t been able to check the regulated and unregulated voltage as I can’t start it. The junction box tests satisfactorily. I disconnected the rectifier and tried another ECU that allegedly works – same result. How do I get a nice blue spark from the spark plugs, ‘cos it seems the most likely explanation to not starting.
    Aaaaaahhhhh What’s wrong????????????

    1. Going on the information you’ve given I would say your ignition coils &/or HT leads are failing (I think this very often causes an orange spark?).

      The coils could be directly failing or, if it’s happening to all 4 at once, it could be a bad earth connection somewhere (check the negative / – battery lead and where it connects to the bike, also check and other earth connections on the bike)?

      Is there any petrol on the plugs when you removed them after turning it over?

  33. Thank you for your rapid reply. The plugs aren’t one dry, neither are they soaking wet unfortunately! I will change the coils/plugs.
    Thanks again. I’ll report further.

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