1991 to 1992 Kawasaki ZXR750 J Specs and Info

Kawasaki Used Motorcycle Parts

Kawasaki ZXR750 J1 Parts….

Kawasaki ZXR 750 J

The Kawasaki ZXR 750 J (J1 and J2 models) was a 749cc sports bike released in the UK between January 1991 and November 1992.
The ZXR750 J was an updated version of the Kawasaki ZXR750 H1 and H2 models and featured 43mm upside down (USD) forks, lighter, diamond section alloy chassis, new short stroke engine and 38mm CVKD carbs (aka constant velocity carb).

Kawasaki ZXR750J

A little bit about the Kwak ZXR750J………

Model information
Bike model: Kawasaki ZXR 750 J
Years (in the UK): January 1991 to November 1992
Kawasaki model code: ZX750J
Frame number: Started – ZX750J—-

Model and updates
ZXR750 J1 (ZX750J1): January 1991 to December 1991. Frame number started: ZX750J-000001-.
Available in green/blue/white or blue gitane.
ZXR750 J2 (ZX750J2): January 1992 to November 1992. Frame number started: ZX750J-013901-.
Same as the ZXR750 J1 model but with minor suspension modifications and a softer rear shock.
Available in green/blue/white or wine red

ZXR 750 J engine

Engine and gearbox
Displacement: 749cc (71 x 47.3mm)
Engine type: In-line four cylinder
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 100 BHP
Top speed: 143.5 mph
Stroke: 4 Stroke
Oil type: 10w40 Semi synthetic
(ZXR750 J Oil filter kit – Rock Oil / ZXR 750 J Oil filter kit – Silkolene)
Oil filter: ZXR750 J oil filter – OIF006 / HF303 / F301
Engine oil capacity: 3.2 litres
Valves per cylinder: 4 (16 valves in total)
Cam shafts: Double overhead cams (DOHC)
Cooling system: Water cooled
Cooling system capacity: 2 litres
Clutch: Multi plate wet (oil submerged) hydraulic ‘slipper’ clutch
Gearbox: 6 speed
Gearbox lubrication: From engine (no separate gearbox oil)
Carburetors: 38mm CVKD Carbs

Chain n’ Sprockets
Final drive: Chain (530 pitch chain with 110 links)
Front sprocket teeth: 14
Rear sprocket teeth: 46

ZXR750 J Radiator

Servicing intervals
Oil change: 10,000km (approx 6200 miles) or every 12 months
Cooling system change: Every 24 months (2 years)
Hydraulic brake fluid change: 20,000km (approx 12,400 miles) or every 24 months (2 years)
Fork oil change: 30,000km (approx 18,600 miles) or every 36 months (3 years)
Swing arm pivot and uni-track grease points: Grease every 10,000km (approx 6200 miles) or every 12 months
Other grease points: Grease every 20,000km (approx 12,400 miles) or every 24 months (2 years)

ZXR750 J race brakes

Brakes ‘n wheels
Front brakes: Twin (dual) discs with 4 pot calipers (4 pistons per caliper)
Front disc part numbers: EBC MD4022LS and MD4022RS
Front brake pad part numbers: EBC FA158
Rear brake: Single disc with 2 pot caliper (2 pistons)
Rear disc part number: MD4013
Rear brake pads part number: FA161
Brake systems: Front and rear hydraulic brakes
Front tyre size: 120/70-17 (3 spoke wheel)
Rear tyre size: 180/55-17 (3 spoke wheel)

ZXR750 J Carbs

Suspension stuff….
Front suspension: 43mm USD (upside down) Telescopic Forks
Front fork oil: 445ml of 5w (light weight) fork oil per fork
Rear suspension: Unitrack Monoshock

Weights ‘n measures
Dry weight: 195kg (dry weight)
Wheelbase: 1420mm
Fuel tank capacity: 18 litres
Fuel type: Unleaded petrol

Electrics ‘n stuff
Ignition system: Electronic CDI
Electrical system: 12 volts
Battery: ZXR750 J battery – YTX12-BS
Spark plugs: NGK CR9E

Other stuff…….
Starter: Electric starter motor
Clutch: Hydraulic operated clutch (no cable)

1991 ZXR 750 J1

Useless stuff…….
Launched in 1991 the Kawasaki ZXR750 J was based on the 1989 to 1990 ZXR 750 H1 and H2 race replica supersports bikes and there are still plenty of these beasties around today.
The ZXR750 was a good bike in it’s day and was used for some racing series and although the ZXR out handled rivals like the GSXR750 and 1100 it was blown away a few years later (along with the FZR’s and GSXR’s) by the Honda Fireblade.

The ZXR750 J was restricted to 100bhp due to an upcoming European 100bhp ban supposedly coming to Europe around the time the J model was launched, but, as with most European laws the BHP ban was scrapped and never came into force.
Although the J model had less BHP then the earlier H models (107bhp) and the later K models (121bhp), the J model had good mid range power due to the lower brake horse power!

Although the ZXR750 J model was based on the earlier H1 and H2 models, unfortunately there aren’t many parts that are interchangeable between the 2 bikes as there were numerous changes between the H and J models (including different forks, engine and bodywork).

Buying advice…….
There are a fair few of these bikes around and you can pick up a good example with MOT for under £1000 privately.
Because of the racing history behind these bikes there are LOADS of ex-racers around (and racing mods like Harrison Billet 6 race calipers can be picked up for these bikes as well!).
These bikes were built to take a knock on the track (with beefed up yokes and spindles etc) so lightly crashed bikes can often easily be repaired.
Obviously, the youngest of these beasts will be around 20 years old now so the bikes do look a bit ‘long in the tooth’ and will have a few age related gremlins and they DON’T handle like more modern counterparts…….
Parts to watch out for when buying…..
Only parts to really check on the ZXR750 is the electrics (alternator, CDI etc) as these can be difficult to source.
The radiators, which due to the racing design of the rad (curved) alot of the ZXR750 radiators were used on other racing bikes and good examples are difficult to get hold of now!
And the upside down forks….
Unfortunately, upside down forks don’t fair well in the UK weather and, unless they’ve been rebuilt and the stanchions replaced they are likely to need work and parts.

Performance mods…….
Apart from the usual Dynojet and K and N filter type stuff there is a relatively simple engine mod if you want a bit more from your ZXR750.
If you put ZX7 pistons in a ZXR750 (it will need a rebore though as of ZX7′s are a couple of mm’s bigger bore) will increase the CC to around 790cc.

Kawasaki ZXR750 J1 Spares….

Sources:
Motorcycle Breakers – WhiteDogBikes
Bikez ZXR750 J Page
Silkolene.co.uk

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2 Wins for Rock Oil Sponsored Tom Sagar…..

Rock Oil Sponsored Tom Sagar Takes 2 Wins at the BEC Abbey Enduro!

Rock OilFast Eddy Racing

Great BEC Opener…..
Rock Oil motorcycle oil sponsored Tom Sagar’s excellent form continued last weekend with two Championship E2 class wins at the opening round of the British Enduro Championship in Wales.
Tom Sagar
The Abbey Enduro provided a tough course, matched only by tough weather conditions throughout the weekend but Tom’s perseverance paid off.
As reigning E2 Champion Tom was looking forward to competing on local ground just
south of Newtown where he is based but the totally unexpected severe weather
conditions made the course especially challenging.
Balls out on the course!
Two excellent special tests were situated just over three miles apart. Despite the wind and rain Tom stayed in touch with the leader, David Knight who was riding exceptionally well, throughout the first day finishing just over a minute adrift in the overallstandings and winning the E2 class by nearly a minute from his nearest rival.

Sunday saw the rain and wind abate but riders awoke to a covering of snow which delayed the start for an hour.
Tom continued his good form and pushed hard to take second overall, again behind
Knight, closing the gap to around 40 seconds on the overall leader and taking his second Championship E2 class win of the weekend in the process.

Tom Sagar:
“I really enjoyed this event. The weather could have been better but the course and Special Tests were superb, I enjoyed every minute. The Abbey hasn’t been used for a while as a BEC venue but the way it was laid out was very good.
I’m very pleased with the Honda. It performed faultlessly which gave me confidence to push hard on the tests. I am still getting to grips with the bike and learning more about its characteristics every time I ride it.
A great start to my BEC campaign and an excellent result for the Fasteddyracing
Honda Team”

Tom Sagar and Fast Eddy Racing

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Aprilia RS50 Replica 2 Stroke Specs and Info

Aprilia Used Spares

2002 Aprilia RS50 Replica Parts….

Aprilia RS50 Replica

A little bit about the Aprilia RS 50 Replica…..

Engine, gearbox and drive stuff
Displacement: 49.7 cc
Engine type: Single cylinder, two-stroke, liquid cooled
Bore and stroke: 40.3mm x 39mm
Compression ratio: 11.5:1
Lubrication: Fully synthetic 2 stroke oil
Clutch: Multi plate wet clutch
Gearbox: Six speed
Gearbox oil: Synthetic 75w90 gear oil
Final drive: Chain drive

Aprilia RS 50 engine

Carb and fuel stuff
Fuel system: Carburettor (Dell Orto carb)
Tank capacity: 13 litres (with a 2.6 litre reserve)
Fuel type: Unleaded petrol
Recommended 2 stroke: Fully synthetic 2T oilNote: Use cheaper/lesser spec 2T oils at your own peril with these bikes!

2002 Aprilia RS50 rear view

Electric stuff
Ignition type: Electric CDI
Starter: Electric start
Electrical system voltage: 12 volts
Generator: 12V – 105W
Battery: Aprilia RS50 battery – YB4L-B / CB4L-B
1999-2000 (Minarelli engine) Spark plug: NGK B8ES
2001-2005 Spark plug: Aprilia RS50 spark plug – NGK BR9ES

Shocks, brakes and wheels
Front tyre size: 90/80-17
Rear tyre size: 110/80-17
Front tyre pressure: 26psi
Rear tyre pressure: 29psi
Front brake: 280mm Hydraulic disc brake (EBC part no: MD672LS)
Front brake pad: EBC FA194
Rear brake: 220mm Hydraulic disc brake (EBC part no: MD664)
Rear brake pad: EBC FA060
Front wheel type: 5 Spoke alloy wheel
Rear wheel type: 5 Spoke alloy wheel
Front Suspension: 35mm diameter stanchion telescopic forks
Rear Suspension: Single monoshock

Frame stuff
Frame type: Die-cast aluminium (2 piece frame bolted together)
Frame number location: Right side of the headstock (right as your sitting on the bike) also has a frame number plate on the left side of the frame

Weights ‘n stuff
Length: 1,920 mm
Width (at the handlebars): 675 mm
Height (at the front fairing): 1,155 mm
Wheelbase: 1,280 mm
Seat height: 810 mm
Dry weight: 89 kg

2002 Aprilia RS50 Replica

Other stuff…..
The Aprilia RS50 Replica was a 50cc, 2 stroke learner sports bike manufactured and sold in the UK between 1999 and 2004.
The RS50′s styling was based on the popular Aprilia RS250 and featured a diecast aluminium frame, 280mm stainless steel front brake disc and 17 inch front and rear wheels.
Aprilia improved the handling from previous models with a larger front wheel (17 inch instead of 16 inch) and by lightening the front end of the RS 50 Replica.
Although the RS50 was usually restricted in the UK to 30mph, unrestricted versions of this bike (mainly imports from countries that didn’t have restrictions) were capable of around 60mph.

Buying advice…..
Although the RS50 is a good and popular learner legal sports bike, this does unfortunately, have a downside :-(
These bikes are very often owned by younger riders who don’t have the money, knowledge or experience to properly maintain them so there are numerous RS50′s out there with botched repairs and piss poor ‘performance modifications’ that any buyer should be wary of.
A general sign is how the bike looks, if it’s scruffy and dirty with panels missing, nearly bald tyres and a drive chain dragging on the floor it will probably need alot of work doing to it….
The other downside to the RS50 is that they don’t wear well, especially in the UK weather.
When the RS was designed and manufactured, Aprilia tried to keep the weight as low as possible (in keeping with the RS’s racing origins) which meant they used lighter and smaller bits in certain areas of the bike. It’s not uncommon for the wheel bearings on higher mileage (30k plus) bikes to fall out due to the wheels being worn out so higher mileage Aprilia RS50′s are best avoided.
As with all Italian performance bikes, make sure the owner has used good quality 2T and gear oils as they don’t like being run on poor quality (i.e. not fully synthetic) oils.
Another thing to consider when your buying these bikes is that this ISN’T a scooter and doesn’t have a scooters running costs! Bear in mind that the Aprilia RS 50 uses motorcycle tyres (instead of cheap scooter tyres), fully synthetic oils and generally more expensive parts! So the RS50 isn’t always ideal for someone on a budget…..

2002 Aprilia RS50 Replica Spares….

2002 Aprilia RS50 Replica

Sources:
Speed-sports.com
Motorcycle Breakers – White Dog

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Choosing the right oil: Using car oils in a motorbike engine. Part 2…

It’s WAR in the car oil industry…..

…..And how it can ruin your bike engine!

Car vs bike oil

The recession is hitting some industries hard now and some companies will do ANYTHING to sell their products…..

But how does this affect using car oil in a motorcycle engine?

Well, it’s a price thing. Car oil blenders have been aggressively competing for large car oil contracts (to supply major car manufacturers with oil for their new cars and dealers workshops) for years.

The ‘competing’ is largely done by price, so if you need a fully synthetic 5w40 API SL rated oil for your new, state of the art diesel car, oil blenders will contact you and say they can make the oil for £XX per litre. Then you decide which oil you want to use (in reality it is alot more complicated then that!).
As was pointed out in Using car oils in a motorbike engine. Part 1, what you see on the oil bottle label ISN’T always whats in the bottle!
Things have got so desperate in the car oil industry the the oils often can’t be blended for the price they are being sold to car manufacturers for (basically, the base oil and additive packs cost more then the oil is being sold for!).

While this may seem good as it means cheaper oil for your car (or your motorbike??!!), the reality is that corners are being cut during the blending process to save money and try and squeeze out some kind of minimal profit from the oil which means that while the oil might say (for example) fully synthetic 5w40 oil on the bottle, what is actually in the bottle is a barely semi synthetic 15w50 that will turn to black sludge within 1000 miles!

So why, if the oil in the bottle is different from what it says on the label isn’t something being done?

Honestly? Because nobody cares!
The ‘nobody cares’ theory was tested by an oil blender recently who lost out on a contract to supply car oil due to price (they were more expensive).
After looking at the price the other company offered they came to the conclusion that the oil can’t be blended at that price, so they sent a sample of the other blenders oil off for testing.
The results came back and the oil didn’t even closely match the original manufacturers spec (hence how they were able to supply the oil for a much cheaper price!).

The results were shown to the manufacturer, who didn’t care, other Government bodies (Trading Standards etc) weren’t interested either!

How do I know your not making this up to try and get me to buy motorcycle oil instead of car oil?

Modern car engines are incredibly fussy when it comes to oil (especially diesel engines!).
Next time your on the motorway have a look at the number of later reg (2008 onwards) smokey diesel cars on the road.
You will probably be surprised by the number you see and most of these smokey engines will be due to poor quality car engine oils used…….

At the end of the day, buying a good, quality Motorcycle Oil is cheaper then having the engine rebuilt!

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Using Injector 2T Oil as Premix 2 Stroke Oil

Can you use a motorcycle injector 2 stroke oil as a premix 2T oil (and vice versa)?

2T injector or premix

Differences between 2 stroke premix and injector systems…..

What is a 2T premix system (also known as a Tank Mix system)?
A 2 stroke premix system is where you have to mix the 2 stroke oil and the petrol before you use it (normally in a container or in the fuel tank).

What is a 2T injector system?
A 2 stroke injector system is where you have a separate 2 stroke oil bottle on the bike that you fill with the oil (the system then ‘injects’ the oil into the petrol as it goes to the engine).

Can I use a motorcycle 2 stroke injection oil in a tank mix / premix system?

YES, you can use a 2T injector oil as a premix.
BUT, a specifically designed Pre Mix 2T oil will protect and lubricate your engine better.

Can I use a 2T premix oil in a 2 stroke injector system?

NO, it’s not advisable to use a 2 stroke premix oil in a bike or scooter with a 2T injection system as a premix oil won’t lubricate the engine properly.

Explanation…..
2 Stroke injector oils are made thinner then 2T premix oils with a bit of kerosene (which also lowers the flash point of the oil).
This means injector oils are more likely to be picked up by the fuel/air mixture as it flows through the port and into the engine and will mix with the fuel and ignite in the engine easier.

A 2 stroke premix oil should have no kerosene in it (so it’s thicker than an injector 2T oil) and sometimes uses a bigger molecule base oil which makes it harder to mix with the fuel. This isn’t a problem in a premix system as the petrol and 2 stroke oil are mixed beforehand, but in an injector system a premix oil wouldn’t mix with the fuel/air vapor properly and wouldn’t protect the engine.

All thrash and BLUE smoke baby!!!

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Yamaha SR250 SE 239cc 4 Stroke Specs and Info

Yamaha Parts and Spares

The Yamaha SR250 SE was a commuter style 4 stroke motorcycle manufactured between 1981 and 1985 (ish!). With styling taken from the Yam SR500 and SR400, the SR 250 was aimed at the popular quarter litre motorbike market (in the UK we used to be able to ride a motorcycle up to 250cc on a car license without the need to take any further motorbike tests).
The SR250SE proved to be (and still is) a popular and reliable commuter bike.

Yamaha SR250-SE

A little bit about the Yamaha SR 250 SE…..

Engine, gearbox and drive stuff

Displacement: 239cc ccm
Engine type: Air cooled, four stroke, single cylinder, SOHC (single overhead cam)
Bore x Stroke: 73.5mm x 56.5mm
Recommended engine oil (4T): Semi Synthetic motorcycle oil
Engine oil capacity: 1.3 litres (1.6 litres if the oil filter is changed as well)
Oil filter: OIF018 / HF145 / X302
Compression Ratio: 8.9:1
Power: 20 bhp at 7700 rpm
Torque: 13.7 ft-lb at 7000 rpm
Top speed: 89 mph….Ish!
Standing ¼ Mile time: 16.3 sec
Cooling system: Air cooled
Gearbox: 5-speed
Final drive: Chain

Yamaha SR 250 engine

Carb and fuel stuff

Carb type: 34mm Mikuni carburetor
Fuel tank capacity: 10.8 Litres
Averge MPG: 70 mpg (miles per gallon

Electric stuff

Ignition type: Electronic CDI
Starter type: Electric starter motor
Battery: YB12A-A / CB12A-A
Spark plug: NGK BP7ES

Shocks, brakes and wheels

Front tyre size: 3.00-18 (300-18)
Rear tyre size: 120/90-16
Front tyre pressure: 28psi
Rear tyre pressure: 32psi
Front brake: Drum (expanding) brake
Rear brake: Drum (expanding) brake
Front wheel type: Spoked wheel
Rear wheel type: Spoked wheel
Front Suspension: 32mm Telescopic forks
Rear Suspension: Twin shock (with preload adjustment)

Weights ‘n stuff

Wet weight (inc oil, petrol, etc): 122 kg

Yam SR250SE

Other stuff…..
Although the SR250 SE was never going to set the motorcycle world alight and wasn’t really all that much to look at, the bike proved very popular with commuters, people looking for their ‘first big bike’, younger riders, city couriers and people looking for a winter hack. Good Yamaha build quality and a fairly bulletproof engine means there are still a fair few around (meaning they are also cheap to pick up now, usually under £500 for a good, road ready example!)

Buying advice…..
As with all Yamaha’s of this age, the electrics can be a bit corroded and problematic (especially in the rain!).
Also, the metal and chrome parts will have seen better days, a bit of rust around the tank, forks and chrome parts is common and nothing to worry about but watch out for bad rot, especially on the exhausts and forks as finding good and none bank account emptying exhausts and forks can be tricky!

Sources:
Bikez.com
Motorcycle Specs
Motorcycle Breakers – White Dog

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